Three-quarter view on a light background: the square bezel raised above the shank

Collection Square·Anello

White gold Square ring with Princess diamond, brilliant-cut diamond halo and shank

An eleven-point Princess at the center, sixteen brilliants framing it, ten on the shank.

€1.805,00 A973b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

At the center a square diamond, closed in a setting that takes it on all four sides. Around it runs a square frame of brilliants, four to a side, with four ribs of metal that start from the corners of the setting and reach the outer corners. The setting stands raised above the shank, and in profile the space under the square stays empty; the shank carries five brilliants on each side, set into the thread of the metal, and thins as it goes down towards the bottom.

The square at the center is a Princess cut of eleven points of a carat, color F and clarity VVS: F is the last grade in the colorless band, VVS means inclusions that are found only at ten magnifications. The twenty-six brilliants of the surround and the shank come to twenty-two points in all, less than a point each: stones you count, not stones you weigh. Twenty-seven diamonds in all, on three grams thirty of eighteen-carat white gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

3,30 gramsWhite gold 18kt 750‰
0,11 carats Diamonds · center
0,22 carats Diamonds · surround of the setting, four to a side
Metals
White gold 18kt 750‰
Technique
Made entirely by hand: the square setting of the Princess, the surround and the two rows on the shank mounted one stone at a time.

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Center 0,11ct Princess F VVSNatural diamond
Surround of the setting, four to a side 0,22ct Brilliant Natural diamonds; ct 0,22 stated by the company in total with the ten on the shank
Shank, five to a side Brilliant Ten natural diamonds, weight included in the ct 0,22 of the surround
View from above: the frame of brilliants, four to a side, around the Princess
The ring standing on the stone, the bezel seen from behind
Frontal profile: the space beneath the bezel and the brilliants in the wire of the shank
On dark slate: the black background sets off the square of the bezel
Resting on the wood, the shank tapering towards the bottom
Macro of the bezel: the ribs that divide the four sides of the surround
Close-up of the corner of the bezel on the pale burl wood
Three-quarter view on dark wood, the row of brilliants on one shoulder
The ring from the side, the bezel in close-up and the white stone behind
Overall view: the whole circle of the shank
On the finger: how high the bezel rises from the hand
On the finger, edge-on: the real footprint of the square

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Princess cut
A square cut with the facets of the brilliant. It was born in the 1970s to waste less rough: from an octahedron you get much more of it than from a round, where the corners end up as dust. The weak point is the corners, which stay sharp: that is where a knock chips the stone, and for that reason the setting takes it on all four sides.
Brilliant cut
Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back from the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.