The ring seen from above: the round coral in the gold bezel and the six grey diamonds around it

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in silver, pierced dome with a round coral and six gray diamonds

Name: Marte ring in silver, pierced dome with a round coral and six gray diamonds
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A906b
Price: 1470.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Six gray diamonds around a round coral of one gram and thirty-eight, on a silver dome pierced right through.

€1.470,00 A906b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The coral is round, a domed cabochon, and on its surface you can read the growth bands of the branch it was cut from. It is held by a corded yellow gold setting, with round beads closing over the edge, and the setting comes off the ring. Below, the silver is not a band: it is a solid dome, pierced with round holes that go right through, oxidized in the recesses and polished on the rims, and from inside the ring you can see the red of the coral through the voids. Around the curve of the dome sit six gray diamonds, each in its own gold seat, resting against the setting.

Eighteen grams and seventy of silver against four of gold: the silver is almost five times the weight, but the gold is all where you look — the setting and the six seats of the diamonds. Here the gold is fourteen carat. The coral weighs one gram and thirty-eight, and a branch of coral grows a few millimeters a year: that gram and a little more is years of material. The six gray diamonds add up to forty-three points of a carat, a little over seven points each, brilliant-cut.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

18.70 gramsSilver 925‰

4.00 gramsGold 14kt

1.38 gramsCoral natural

0.43 carats Diamonds · around the curve of the dome, around the setting

Metals: Silver 925‰, setting in gold 14kt
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. The gold setting is mounted so that it can be detached from the silver structure.

The stones

Coral

At the center, in the removable setting

Cut: Round cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Around the curve of the dome, around the setting 0.43ct Brilliant —6 natural gray diamonds

Side view: the openwork silver dome descending towards the band

The inside of the ring: the dome is hollow and the red of the coral shows from below

Three-quarter view from the right: the holes in the silver pass right through

On driftwood, in three-quarter view: the round coral and the yellow gold bezel

The side of the dome: the holes cross the silver like the channels of a coral

Close-up of the six grey diamonds in their small gold seats around the bezel

Close-up on the side: the silver burnished in the recesses and polished on the edges of the holes

The ring on the finger: the dome covers almost the whole width of the finger

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Coral: Coral is not a mineral: it is the calcareous skeleton of an animal that lives in a colony, and it grows a few millimeters a year. It is not faceted: it is shaped and polished to a curved surface, because every facet would be material taken from a branch that does not grow back. And it has to be protected afterwards too: acids, perfumes and heat put its color out, and color lost does not come back.
Removable setting: A setting that comes away has to go back in its place with the same precision every time: the seat is fitted by hand until there is no play and the movement stays smooth. If the tolerance is loose the setting rattles, if it is tight it bends on the second fitting, and in between there is no margin to recover.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black from the flame is shut in under the gold.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dead.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli