The ring in three-quarter view on the edge of a light stone: the narrow band, pierced all the way around.

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte faith ring in silver, 5.50 mm narrow band, pierced on a single row of empty spaces

Five millimeters fifty of band: the narrowest of the silver Marte rings, and the voids cross it from edge to edge.

€140,00 AA172AG

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The band is five millimeters fifty high and rises the same all the way round: it does not swell into a dome, it has no front, and whichever point you wear over the finger the design is the same. The wall is not engraved, it is pierced right through: the voids are wide, rounded and never alike, and they all sit in a single row, each almost as tall as the band, from the top edge to the bottom one. What is left of the silver is a continuous edge above, one below, and between the two a row of crooked bridges holding them together; here and there a flap of metal juts into the void and pinches it. The bridges are brought back to polish and the recesses stay black, so from a distance the ring reads as a chain of lights over a dark ground. The two edges are not cut straight either: they wave and scallop, following the voids. Inside, against the finger, the wall is leveled and stays smooth.

Five grams twenty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths: among the silver Marte rings it is the lightest and the narrowest. The straight band from the same collection weighs eight grams thirty and carries two rows of voids one above the other; the wide one comes to thirteen seventy over fourteen millimeters ninety of height. Here the height is five and a half, and on a band this low the wide voids leave very little solid: the bridges between one void and the next are all the structure the ring has, and they are as thin as they can be. In a piercing what is taken away does not come back, and where a little too much is taken the circle gives way exactly there. The maker offers it both for women and for men. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model is made in gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

5,20 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised work
Dimensions
Band height 5.50 mm
Technique
Made by hand in the maker's goldsmith studio. On request the same model is made in gold.
The side in full light: a single row of wide openings between the upper edge and the lower one.
The ring tilted: through the openings the opposite wall can be seen.
Close up: the small silver bridges that hold the two edges together, and the flaps that reach into the openings.
The ring upright on the stone, the wall seen from the front: how low the band is.
Shot from just above: the two edges wave and scallop following the openings.
Three-quarter view on a chip of stone: the repolished ribs above the black grounds.
Looking inside the circle: against the finger the wall is flattened and stays smooth.
The ring on the finger: the band takes up a little more than half a centimeter on the phalanx.
The silver Marte bands photographed together on a piece of wood: the other four are not included in the price.

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids
In a geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a link comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid is left too thin, and the piece gives way exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to hold.
Oxidizing
The silver is darkened on purpose, and then brought back to polish only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins. The same design can be made in gold.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.