The ring in three-quarter view on a white stone: the amethyst in the gold bezel above the silver leaf openwork

Collection Rinascimento·Anello·Florentine work, leaf design

Rinascimento silver and gold ring with oval amethyst and gray diamonds, leaf filigree

Four gold bars carrying fifty-four hundredths of a carat of gray diamonds, over a piercing of silver leaves.

€2.030,00 A915bam

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The band is wide and domed, and it is not solid: the silver body is pierced with leaves, and on every leaf the veins are engraved with the burin. At the center, in a gold setting with a beaded rim, sits an oval amethyst laid lengthwise along the band, not along the finger. From the setting four gold bars step over the piercing towards the four corners of the band and run down the sides: along each one goes a row of gray diamonds. Inside, the ring returns smooth, because that is the part that sits on the finger.

The eighteen carat gold weighs three grams ninety, and it is not the structure: it makes the setting, the four bars and the edge of the band. All the rest — the body, the piercing, the leaves — is silver, and here it is the silver that takes the burin. The gray diamonds are natural, brilliant-cut, and add up to fifty-four hundredths of a carat: there are many of them and they are small, spread over four rows, and the gray sits beside the purple of the amethyst without competing with it for color.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

Silver 925‰
3,90 gramsGold 18kt 750‰
0,54 carats Diamonds · on the four gold bars running out from the setting
Metals
Silver 925‰ and gold 18kt 750‰
Style
Florentine work, leaf design
Technique
Made entirely by hand: the piercing and the burin engraving on the silver body, the setting and the four gold bars mounted over it, the diamonds set one by one.

The stones

Amethyst

Center, in the gold setting with a beaded rim

Cut
Oval
Note
Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

On the four gold bars running out from the setting 0,54ct Brilliant Natural gray diamonds, total

Certificate Certificate of authenticity and guarantee · gift box

The band seen from above: the four gold bars with grey diamonds running from the corners of the bezel
Three-quarter view with the band: the leaf openwork continues on the sides
The ring in profile: the height of the openwork dome and the smooth inside of the band
Close-up of the beaded edge of the gold bezel and of the veins engraved on the leaves
The back of the piece and the inside of the ring, polished and without openwork
The ring on the finger: how much room the wide band takes up

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Openwork
The metal is drilled and then cut out from the inside with a very fine saw, until the solid sheet becomes a drawing of voids. It is a technique that allows no second attempt: what is taken away does not come back.
Burin engraving
The burin is a goldsmith's small chisel pushed by hand. It does not scratch: it lifts a shaving of metal and leaves a clean groove that picks up the light. It is the mark that for five centuries has distinguished the Florentine goldsmithing school.
Gold and silver on the same piece
Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Brilliant cut
Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.
Amethyst
Amethyst is purple quartz, and the purple does not come from a pigment: it comes from a few atoms of iron that ended up in the lattice in place of silicon and were then struck by the natural radiation of the rock. That is why the color is almost never laid on evenly — it arranges itself in zones and bands, deeper on one side and paler on the other — and orienting the stone properly on the lap is exactly what spreads it out. It is as hard as citrine, seventh degree, and it is worn every day with no care against scratches; but that purple is the most delicate thing it has. A strong, continuous light fades it, and heat wipes it out altogether: an amethyst heated enough turns yellow, and that is how a good part of the citrine on the market is born. Purple once lost does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.