The round coral in the gold bezel, from the front, on the burnished openwork silver

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte silver ring with round coral and eight gray diamonds, gold bezel

Name: Marte silver ring with round coral and eight gray diamonds, gold bezel
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A914b
Price: 1480.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Eight gray diamonds scattered on the silver branches, and a round coral in a gold setting that comes away.

€1.480,00 A914b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The coral is round: a polished half sphere, of a full orange that darkens where the curve falls away. It is held by a circle of yellow gold with claws finished as small beads, and that circle comes away from the ring. Below and around it is all oxidized silver, a tangle of soldered branches leaving irregular voids between them, open right through: the black has stayed in the recesses, the pale only on the raised work. The eight gray diamonds do not form a ring: they sit scattered on the branches, at different heights, each in a small gold seat cut where the branch widens just enough.

Sixteen grams of silver make the structure; four and ten of fourteen-carat gold make the setting and the seats of the diamonds. The coral weighs one gram and forty, and it is the slowest part of the piece: a branch of coral grows a few millimeters a year, so that gram and forty is time that cannot be made again. The eight diamonds come to forty-seven hundredths of a carat, brilliant cut: scattered as they are, they are there to mark the branches rather than to make a circle around the stone.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

16,00 gramsSilver 925‰

4,10 gramsGold 14kt

1,40 gramsCoral natural

0,47 carats Diamonds · scattered on the silver branches

Metals: Silver 925‰, setting in 14kt gold
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. The gold setting is mounted so that it can be detached from the silver structure.

The stones

Coral

Central, in the removable setting

Cut: Round cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Scattered on the silver branches 0,47ct Brilliant —8 natural gray diamonds

The ring resting on a piece of driftwood, three-quarter view

Shot more from above on the wood: the diamonds scattered on the branches can be counted

Three-quarter view on a light stone, with the silver band in view beneath the bezel

From one side: the thickness of the silver tangle and the coral foreshortened

The ring from behind: the openwork seen from the reverse, with the openings passing right through

Three-quarter view from behind: the polished inside of the band against the burnished silver

The ring on the finger, from above: the eight grey diamonds at different heights can be counted

The ring on the finger, in three-quarter view: how high the bezel rises above the hand

Marte collection shot: this ring on the right, next to a pendant and a ring with the oval coral

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Coral: Coral is not a mineral: it is the calcareous skeleton of an animal that lives in colonies, and it grows a few millimeters a year. It is not faceted: it is roughed out and polished to a curved surface, because every facet would be material taken from a branch that does not grow back. And it has to be protected afterwards too: acids, perfumes and heat put its color out, and color once lost does not come back.
Removable setting: A setting that comes away has to return to its place with the same precision every time: the seat is fitted by hand until there is no play left and the movement stays smooth. If the tolerance is loose the setting rocks, if it is tight it bends on the second fitting, and in between there is no margin to recover.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened deliberately, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the pale on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame gets closed in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that light entering from above comes back out the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli