The oval coral in the gold bezel, seen in three-quarter view on a linen cloth

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in silver with oval coral and eight gray diamonds, gold bezel

Name: Marte ring in silver with oval coral and eight gray diamonds, gold bezel
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A949b
Price: 1610.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Eight gray diamonds scattered over the silver dome, and at the center a coral of one gram forty in the gold setting that lifts off.

€1.610,00 A949b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The coral is an oval cabochon, dark orange, polished without a single facet: you can see the growth veining running through it, and the light does not enter, it stays on the surface. It is closed by a yellow gold border beaten irregular, with a few gold beads pressed over the stone to hold it. Below, the silver is a hollow dome, pierced with rounds and ovals of different sizes that pass right through: from behind, the red of the coral shows through the metal. It is oxidized in the recesses and brought back to polish on the raised work, so the voids stay dark. The eight gray diamonds form no circle: they are scattered over the silver, each in its own gold seat, at different distances from the setting. Below, the band returns to smooth.

Sixteen grams forty-seven of silver make the whole structure; four twenty-seven of eighteen-carat gold make the setting and the seats of the diamonds, a little over a fifth of the metal, put where it is looked at. The coral weighs one gram forty: a branch grows by a few millimeters a year, so even one gram is a matter of decades, and it cannot be remade. The eight gray diamonds come to thirty-five points of carat in all, brilliant cut, and they are small stones: each wants a seat opened by hand at a different point in the piercing, where the metal widens just enough. The setting detaches from the silver dome: it is the convertible part of the piece.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

16,47 gramsSilver 925‰

4,27 gramsGold 18kt 750‰

1,40 gramsCoral natural

0,35 carats Diamonds · scattered over the dome, around the setting

Metals: Silver 925‰, bezel in gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the maker's goldsmith studio. The gold setting is mounted so that it can be detached from the silver structure.

The stones

Coral

At the center, in the removable setting

Cut: Oval cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Scattered over the dome, around the setting 0,35ct Brilliant —8 natural gray diamonds

Close front view: the eight grey diamonds around the bezel can be counted

Three-quarter view on a grey background: how high the silver dome rises above the band

The ring standing on a light stone, the bezel foreshortened

Front view: the hammered gold edge that closes over the coral

The ring from behind: the red of the coral shows through the silver openwork

Close-up: the veins of the coral and the gold grains that hold it

The ring resting on a piece of weathered wood, shot in three-quarter view

Three-quarter view from above: the diamonds at different distances from the bezel

The whole piece from the front, coral and silver in the same frame

The ring turned slightly: the gold seats of the diamonds on the side of the dome

The ring on the finger: how much of the hand the silver dome covers

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Coral: Coral is not a mineral: it is the calcareous skeleton of an animal that lives in colonies, and it grows by a few millimeters a year. It is not faceted: it is roughed down and polished to a curved surface, because every facet would be material taken from a branch that does not grow back. And it has to be protected afterwards too: acids, perfumes and heat put out its color, and the color once lost does not return.
Removable setting: A setting that comes away has to return to its place with the same precision every time: the seat is fitted by hand until the play is nil and the movement stays smooth. If the tolerance is wide the setting rattles, if it is tight it bends at the second fitting, and in between there is no margin to recover.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then brought back to polish only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out on the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli