Collection Marte·Anello
Marte ring in domed sphere-shaped silver, perforated dotted shell
Fifteen grams and twenty of silver closed into a hollow sphere, pierced right through.
Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.
Above the finger the band does not widen into a dome: it closes into a sphere. It is a silver shell round on every side, and it is not solid — it is opened by irregular voids that go right through, and looking into one you see the light coming in through the one opposite. The metal left between one void and the next runs like a net of branches, and at every knot of the net there is a raised bead, re-polished, standing out from the ground. The ground, on the other hand, is oxidized almost to black: the sphere reads as a dark held together by a pale mesh. The band takes up the same design and narrows as it runs down to the inside of the finger, where it goes back to smooth.
Fifteen grams and twenty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths: among the silver Marte pieces it is the heaviest, and all that metal is in a shell that is hollow inside. A sphere cannot be held still on the bench like a sheet and cannot be opened from above: the body is closed and curved, every hole has to be opened on a surface that runs away under the tool, and there is no going back inside to finish it. What holds the sphere up is only the solid metal remaining between one void and the next, and where too much is taken away the wall gives at exactly that point — on a closed shell there is no way to strengthen it from inside. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model is made in gold.
The material
Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.
- Metals
- Silver 925‰
- Finish
- Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised work
- Technique
- Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. On request the same model is made in gold.
How it is made
The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.
- Pierced hollow sphere
- A flat sheet can be held still on the bench and opened from above; a sphere cannot. The body is closed and hollow, so every hole has to be opened on a surface that runs away under the tool, and the point that breaks through comes out into a void with nothing behind it. The inside can no longer be reached: the edges have to be worked back one at a time from the only accessible side, the outside. And the sphere stands up only through the solid metal remaining between one void and the next — take too much away at one point and the wall gives at exactly that spot, and on a closed shell there is no way of strengthening it from inside.
- Irregular voids
- In geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a mesh comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid metal is left too thin, and the piece gives at exactly that spot. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to carry.
- Oxidizing
- The silver is darkened deliberately, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the pale on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi
Made for you
Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins. The same design can be made in gold.
The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.
A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.
Della stessa famiglia
Due modi di cercare quello che somiglia a questo.
-
Marte faith ring in silver, 5.50 mm narrow band, pierced on a single row of empty spaces
€140,00
-
Starfish Marte pendant in oxidized and perforated silver, 38 cm chain included
€130,00
-
Marte ring in domed silver band, round perforated dome with raised dots
€150,00
-
Men's Marte ring in silver, perforated flat-top dome
€240,00
-
Fiore d'Inverno ring in silver with amethyst and yellow enamel, 14 mm corolla
€120,00
-
Fiore d'Inverno ring in bronze with garnet, blackened corolla and hammered band
€120,00
-
Marte faith ring in silver, 5.50 mm narrow band, pierced on a single row of empty spaces
€140,00
-
Fiore d'Inverno Ring in silver with citrine quartz, sinuous hammered wire shank
€150,00
