Collection Gioielli Classici·Orecchini
White gold solitaire stud earrings with a brilliant-cut diamond in a six-prong setting
One brilliant per lobe, twenty-five hundredths of a carat, color G and clarity VS1.
Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.
One diamond per earring, and nothing else around it. The brilliant sits inside a small white gold cup, held by six claws pushed over the girdle of the stone; the sides of the cup are open, and through those voids the light enters from below as well instead of stopping on the table. Behind, the post and butterfly back, with the 750 hallmark on the back.
Between the edge of the stone and the edge of the earring there is a little over a millimeter on each side: three millimeters and ninety the diameter of the diamond, six and fifteen that of the earring. Twenty-five hundredths of a carat, color G and clarity VS1. Two grams and sixty of eighteen-carat white gold for the pair. In a piece like this there is no design to hide behind: what is judged is how the stone is held, and whether the second earring is identical to the first.
The material
Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.
- Metals
- White gold 18kt 750‰
- Dimensions
- Diameter of the earring 6,15 mm · diameter of the stone 3,90 mm
- Technique
- Made by hand: the small cup pierced at the sides, the diamond set in six claws.
The diamonds
Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.
How it is made
The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.
- Brilliant cut
- Fifty-seven facets calculated so that light entering from above comes back out the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.
- Six-claw setting
- The six claws rise from the rim of the cup and are pushed over the girdle of the diamond one at a time: they all have to press with the same force, because a tighter claw tilts the stone and a looser one lets it turn. On a solitaire there is no design to cover the mistake, because the stone is all there is to see. And earrings come in twos: same height, claws oriented the same way, or the difference reads on the face before it does in the photograph.
I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi
Made for you
Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.
The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.
A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.
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