The oval coral in the gold bezel, seen from the front on the silver dome

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in silver with oval coral and thirteen gray diamonds, gold bezel

Name: Marte ring in silver with oval coral and thirteen gray diamonds, gold bezel
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A947b
Price: 2740.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Thirteen gray diamonds around a coral of two grams and forty-six, in a gold setting that comes away.

€2.740,00 A947b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The coral sits at the center, oval and domed, smoothed until it has not a single facet: the light does not go into it, it slides over it. It is held by a hammer-beaten yellow gold ring, and that ring comes off the piece. Below, the silver is a tall dome, opened with irregular voids like the branches of a coral, oxidized in the recesses so the voids stay dark. In its bends sit thirteen gray diamonds, one at a time, where the metal widens just enough to open a seat.

Sixteen grams and ninety of silver make the structure; five and nineteen of eighteen-carat gold make only the setting, and that is where the expensive part of the weight is concentrated. The coral weighs two grams and forty-six: a branch of coral grows a few millimeters a year, so that little material is decades of time. The thirteen gray diamonds add up to fifty-eight points of a carat, brilliant-cut.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

16.90 gramsSilver 925‰

5.19 gramsGold 18kt 750‰

2.46 gramsCoral natural

0.58 carats Diamonds · around the setting

Metals: Silver 925‰, setting in gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. The gold setting is mounted so that it can be detached from the silver structure.

The stones

Coral

At the center, in the removable setting

Cut: Oval cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Around the setting 0.58ct Brilliant —13 natural gray diamonds

The ring on a piece of wood, shot from above over the bezel

Close front view, with the grey diamonds set around the coral

Three-quarter view: the height of the silver dome reads clearly

The whole piece in three-quarter view, coral and silver in the same frame

The ring on the finger, seen from above: the relation between the coral and the hand

Side view of the ring: the silver flank with its voids, over the full height

The inside of the band, with the back of the bezel and the coral showing from underneath

Three-quarter view from one side: the gold bezel foreshortened and the voids in the silver behind

Three-quarter view from the other side, with the grey diamonds on the shoulder of the ring

The hammered gold rim closing over the coral, seen almost edge on

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Coral: Coral is not a mineral: it is the calcareous skeleton of an animal that lives in a colony, and it grows a few millimeters a year. It is not faceted: it is shaped and polished to a curved surface, because every facet would be material taken from a branch that does not grow back. And it has to be protected afterwards too: acids, perfumes and heat put its color out, and color lost does not come back.
Removable setting: A setting that comes away has to go back in its place with the same precision every time: the seat is fitted by hand until there is no play and the movement stays smooth. If the tolerance is loose the setting rattles, if it is tight it bends on the second fitting, and in between there is no margin to recover.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black from the flame is shut in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dead.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli