Collection Gioielli Classici·Orecchini
White gold solitaire earrings with lab-grown diamonds
One carat and four in two stones: lab-grown diamonds, color E and clarity IF.
Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.
One diamond per earring and nothing else around it. The stone sits in a four-claw white gold basket, the claws pushed over the girdle one by one; between one claw and the next the basket is empty, and through those open sides the light comes in from the side as well instead of stopping at the table. Behind, the straight post and the butterfly back. The two stones are laboratory-grown diamonds, not mined: it says so here, at the top, because it is the first thing to know and not the last.
One carat and four points in all, a little over half a carat per lobe. Color E, clarity IF: colorless, and with no inclusions visible at ten times magnification; the report is from IGI. Two grams of eighteen-carat white gold for the pair. The carbon is the same as in a mined diamond, the hardness is the same, the cut is the same and the light behaves in the same way: what changes is where the stone grew, and what it costs. At the same weight and grade a mined stone would be at another price, and that is the reason one carat and four, color E and clarity IF, is reached here.
The material
Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.
- Metals
- White gold 18kt 750‰
- Dimensions
- Earring diameter 5.13 mm
- Technique
- Made by hand: the four-claw basket, the tips pushed over one by one above the girdle of the stone.
The diamonds
Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.
Certificate IGI-certified diamonds · color E · clarity IF
How it is made
The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.
- Laboratory-grown diamond
- A diamond grown in a laboratory is carbon crystallized like the carbon that forms in the Earth's mantle: the same lattice, the same hardness at the tenth degree, the same facets, the same behavior with light. There are two ways of bringing it into being. With HPHT a press reproduces around a diamond seed the pressure and the temperature found at a hundred and fifty kilometers of depth; with CVD a carbon-rich gas is broken down inside a low-pressure chamber and the carbon settles layer upon layer on a thin diamond plate. In both cases we are talking about weeks, where in nature we are talking about geological ages. To the naked eye, and even with a goldsmith's ten-times loupe, it cannot be told apart from a mined stone: recognizing it takes laboratory instruments that read the traces left by the growth. The difference is not in the stone: it is in the origin, and in the price, which at the same weight and grade is a fraction of that of a mined diamond. That is why it has to be said, and said first: whoever buys has the right to know which of the two things they are buying.
- IGI certification
- The International Gemological Institute is an independent laboratory that weighs, measures and grades the stone, and it is the one most of the market for laboratory-grown diamonds turns to. On the report are the weight, the color, the clarity and the quality of the cut, and — the point that counts here — the fact that the stone was grown in a laboratory and not in rock. It is not the word of the seller: it is the measurement of a third party that earns nothing from the sale.
- Brilliant cut
- Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dead.
- Claw setting
- Claws are small gold prongs that bend over the stone and hold it with a few millimeters of metal, with no setting behind it. They have to be closed cold, one at a time, with the gem already in its seat: a claw closed too tight cuts into the stone, one left too loose loses it, and between the two there is not much margin.
I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi
Made for you
Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.
The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.
A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.
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