Front view on a grey background: the ruby at the centre of the eight diamonds, the chain open in a V

Collection Gioielli Classici·Pendente·Daisy setting

Daisy necklace in white gold, eight diamonds around the central ruby

A twenty-one-point ruby at the center, eight diamonds in a crown: all within eight millimeters thirty.

€1.200,00 P648br

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

A ruby at the center, dark red, and eight diamonds forming a circle around it: the surround closes in an eight-pointed rosette, and at the top there is the gap where the loop goes, between the two highest stones. The metal is barely visible: it is the claws, which emerge between one stone and the next and rise between the seats of the surround to take the ruby. Behind there is no plate. From the side the rosette stands low and is open underneath: you can see the light passing between the small arches that hold the seats. Above, a flat folded loop, and a chain of flattened oval links passing through a single ring.

Two grams ten of eighteen-carat gold. The center ruby is natural, brilliant cut, twenty-one points of a carat. The eight diamonds of the surround are natural as well and add up to twenty points, color F-G and clarity VS: between ruby and diamonds that is forty-one points divided over nine stones. The flower measures eight millimeters thirty across, the chain forty-one and a half centimeters. The ruby, read inside its crown, looks bigger than its twenty-one points: that is what the daisy setting is made to do. Of the matching necklace, with the same flower and the same design, only the center changes: there a brilliant, here the red stone.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

2,10 gramsWhite gold 18kt 750‰
0,21 carats Ruby · brilliant
0,20 carats Diamonds · surround, eight stones
Metals
White gold 18kt 750‰
Style
Daisy setting
Dimensions
Diameter about 8,30 mm · chain length 41,5 cm
Technique
Made entirely by hand.

The stones

Ruby

Center

Cut
Brilliant
Carats
ct 0,21
Note
Natural ruby

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Surround, eight stones 0,20ct Brilliant F-G/VSNatural diamonds, total
In three-quarter view on a white stone, with the chain laid out on the surface
Resting against an upright white stone: the chain runs down and the rosette stays at the bottom
Grazing view: the bezel open beneath the flower and how little the rosette rises from the surface
On a white background, the whole necklace: the chain, the flat bail and the flower of stones
Between stacked marble slabs, with the chain running down diagonally
On light wood, at a distance: how small the rosette really is
In three-quarter view on light stone: the prongs that hold the stones seen from below
Close-up on the wood: the central ruby and the eight stones of the surround

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Daisy setting
The daisy, «entourage» in French catalogs, is a circle of small stones mounted around a larger one. The eye does not measure the center stone on its own: it reads it together with the crown, and sees it larger than it is. It is the reason the setting has been used for centuries, and at the same time its difficulty: the seats of the surround all have to be at the same height and the same distance from the center, because a single one out of plane breaks the circle, and in a circle the error is seen before anything else.
Brilliant cut
Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back from the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.
Ruby
Ruby is corundum: the same mineral species as sapphire, and between the two all that changes is the impurity locked in the lattice. The red is made by chromium, and the same chromium that gives the color makes the stone fluorescent and, in a high dose, makes it grow with more fractures: that is why a large clear ruby is as rare as a large diamond. On hardness it sits at the ninth degree, immediately below diamond, and it does not fear scratching; but where the fractures have been filled with glass or resin it fears heat, and whoever mounts it closes the setting cold and keeps the flame away from the seat.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.