The ring in three-quarter view, resting on the edge of a light stone: the silver mesh and the openings that break it up.

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte wedding band ring in silver, straight band, perforated with two rows of large voids

Eight grams and thirty of silver pierced right through: on the finger the skin shows through the voids.

€150,00 AA175

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The band is straight: it rises to the same height the whole way round, with no dome and no front, and whichever point is worn above the finger the design is the same. The surface is not engraved, it is pierced: the voids go right through, and on the finger you see the skin through the ring. They are wide voids, roundish but never round, of different sizes, arranged in two overlapping rows separated by a ridge of metal that waves and never keeps the same height. What is left of the silver is a mesh of thick ridges, re-polished on top, while the recesses and the edges inside the voids stay black. The two rims are not cut straight either: they follow the voids and scallop. Inside, on the other hand, the wall is flattened, and against the finger it stays smooth.

Eight grams and thirty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, and all of it is in the mesh. Here the voids are few and wide — not the dense field of small holes of the tall band in the same collection — so there is little metal left, and that little has to be enough to hold the circle on its own. In piercing, the solid metal that remains between one void and the next is both the design and the structure: where a little too much is taken away the ring gives at exactly that point, and what is taken away does not come back. The company offers it both for women and for men. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model is made in gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

8,30 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised work
Technique
Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. On request the same model is made in gold.
View from above on the marble surface: the two rows of openings and the scalloped edges can be counted.
The ring standing on a stone, the wall seen from the front: through the openings you can see right through.
The ring seen from the front: inside the circle the opposite wall appears, flattened on the inside.
The ring upright among chips of light stone: the contained height of the band seen from the side.
The ring on the finger, close-up side view: the skin shows through the openings.
The ring on the finger seen from above: the pattern runs the same all around the band.
The hand open: how much room the band takes on the phalanx.
The ring worn, from another angle: the light ribs above the black grounds.

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids
In geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a mesh comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid metal is left too thin, and the piece gives at exactly that spot. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to carry.
Oxidizing
The silver is darkened deliberately, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the pale on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins. The same design can be made in gold.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.