Marte ring in burnished silver and gold with amethyst, overall view

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in oxidized silver and gold with checkerboard amethyst and five colored stones

Name: Marte ring in oxidized silver and gold with checkerboard amethyst and five colored stones
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A857
Price: 1175.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

An amethyst of four carats twenty-two, checkerboard cut, and five colored stones around it.

€1.175,00 A857

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

At the center a round amethyst, its crown cut in a checkerboard: on the surface you read a grid of little squares instead of the points of a brilliant, and the violet stays full rather than breaking up into sparks. It is closed by a yellow gold setting with a wavy edge, beaten irregular. Below and around it everything is oxidized silver, pierced with round craters that pass right through, black in the recesses and brought back to polish on the raised work. On the silver, at different levels and without forming a circle, sit five small stones, each held by four gold claws: one green, one orange, one pale pink, one fuchsia, one violet.

Ten grams of silver make the structure, three of eighteen-carat yellow gold make the central setting and the seats of the small stones: less than a quarter of the metal, put where it is looked at. The central amethyst weighs four carats twenty-two. The colored stones around it are citrine quartz, peridot and pink amethyst, and each has its seat opened by hand at a different point in the piercing, where the metal widens just enough.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

10,00 gramsSilver 925‰

3,00 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

4,22 carats Amethyst · round, checkerboard crown

Metals: Silver 925‰ and yellow gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made by hand. Pierced silver body, oxidized in the recesses and polished on the raised work; central setting and seats for the colored stones in yellow gold.

The stones

Amethyst

At the center, in the gold setting

Cut: Round, checkerboard crown
Carats: ct 4,22

Citrine quartz

Among the five colored stones around it, in gold claw settings

Peridot

Among the five colored stones around it, in gold claw settings

Pink amethyst

Among the five colored stones around it, in gold claw settings

The amethyst in the gold bezel, with the five coloured stones around it

The ring on a piece of wood: the gold prong seats on the burnished silver

Side view, with the craters and the openings of the silver

Close-up of the gold bezel with its wavy edge

The ring worn: the checkerboard grid on the crown of the stone

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then brought back to polish only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Checkerboard cut: On the crown the facets do not converge towards a point: they cross in a grid of squares, like a checkerboard. It is a cut that does not look for the sparkle but for the depth of the color, and for that reason it is used on quartzes and on gems where the color is the subject.
Amethyst: Amethyst is violet quartz, and the violet does not come from a pigment: it comes from a few atoms of iron that ended up in the lattice in place of silicon and were then struck by the natural radiation of the rock. For that reason the color is almost never laid on evenly — it arranges itself in zones and bands, deeper on one side and lighter on the other — and orienting the stone properly under the wheel is exactly what serves to spread it. It is as hard as citrine, the seventh degree, and it can be worn every day without worrying about scratches; but that violet is the most delicate thing it has. Strong continuous light fades it, and heat erases it altogether: an amethyst heated enough turns yellow, and that is how a good part of the citrine on the market comes about. The violet once lost does not return.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli