The ring seen from the front: the white pearl on top, the four silver arms that hold it and the pierced band beneath

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in oxidized silver and gold with round white pearl and four diamonds

Name: Marte ring in oxidized silver and gold with round white pearl and four diamonds
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: AA233bp
Price: 590.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Ten grams and forty-five of silver hollowed into craters, and four diamonds in gold settings around the pearl.

€590,00 AA233bp

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The pearl sits at the top, white and round, with a sheen that runs over the gray-pink. It is held by four silver arms that rise from the band and close above its equator, without projecting at the sides. Below it the band widens and opens: the metal is hollowed into craters and pierced right through, and no void is like the one beside it. The oxidizing has left the black in the recesses and the bright only on the rims that stand proud, as in all the Marte pieces. Around the base of the pearl four yellow gold settings, small as pinheads, each hold a brilliant: they sit at the four points, one above, one below and one to each side. Behind, the shank becomes smooth and narrow again, and from there you can measure all the thickness that was taken away at the front.

Ten grams and forty-five of silver make the structure; thirty hundredths of a gram of eighteen-carat gold make the four settings, and that is all the gold on the piece: less than a thirtieth of the metal, put only where it holds a stone. The four brilliants add up to twelve points of a carat, color F-G and clarity VS1 — tiny stones, there to mark the four points around the pearl and not to compete with it. The pearl is natural, white and round, and it is the softest part of the piece: it sits at about the third degree of hardness, it scratches with a fingernail and it fears acids, so it goes on last, after the perfume, and is put away dry.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

10.45 gramsSilver 925‰

0.30 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

0.12 carats Diamonds · four around the pearl, in gold settings

Metals: Silver 925‰ and yellow gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made entirely by hand. The band is hollowed into craters and opened into irregular voids one by one, then oxidized and re-polished on the raised areas only; the four gold settings are soldered onto the silver, and the arms that hold the pearl are closed around its profile.

The stones

Pearl

At the center, above the silver crown

Cut: Round
Note: Natural white pearl

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Four around the pearl, in gold settings 0.12ct Brilliant F-G/VS1Natural diamonds, total

Certificate Certificate of authenticity and guarantee · gift packaging

The ring from above: the four diamonds in gold bezels set around the pearl

The side of the band, with the openings that pass through and the black of the burnishing left in the recesses

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids: In geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a mesh comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid is left too thin, and the piece gives way exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to carry.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black from the flame is shut in under the gold.
Pearl: The pearl is the only gem produced by a living animal, and it is not a mineral like the others: it is aragonite — calcium carbonate — held together by conchiolin, an organic substance the mollusc lays down between one layer and the next. That organic part is its weak point. On the hardness scale a pearl sits at about three: it scratches with a fingernail, and the metal of another piece of jewelry marks it at the first contact. But the scratch is not the worst damage: being a carbonate it dissolves in acids, and sweat, perfume, hairspray and vinegar corrode the surface until the sheen goes out. It goes on last, after the perfume, and comes off first; it is cleaned with a barely damp cloth and put away dry, never shut in a bag where the air does not pass. And you watch the thread or the cord that holds it too: it is the part that ages first, and it should be replaced before it gives way, not after.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dead.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli