The cabochon coral in the gold bezel, with the seven grey diamonds around it

Collection Marte·Anello

"Marte" ring in silver with oval coral and seven gray diamonds, gold bezel setting

Name: "Marte" ring in silver with oval coral and seven gray diamonds, gold bezel setting
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A946b
Price: 2490.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

The gold setting with the coral comes away: the seven gray diamonds stay on the silver.

€2.490,00 A946b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

At the center a natural coral, oval cabochon, polished until the growth veining shows: the color runs from salmon to dark orange and changes according to how the hand is turned. It is held by a yellow gold setting with an irregular rim, the claws bent like small twigs. All the rest is oxidized silver, pierced with round and oval holes of different sizes that go right through: from behind you see the red of the coral through the metal. Around the setting, seven gray diamonds in small gold seats.

Fifteen grams and sixty-five of silver, six and seventy of eighteen-carat gold: the silver weighs more than twice as much, but it is the gold that sits where you look. The coral, two grams. The seven diamonds come to thirty hundredths of a carat in all, and their gray is what holds the piece together: white ones would pull the light away from the coral, gray ones stay on the side of the silver. The setting comes away: it is the part of the ring that can be changed.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

15,65 gramsSilver 925‰

6,70 gramsGold 18kt 750‰

2,00 gramsCoral natural

0,30 carats Diamonds · around the setting

Metals: Silver 925‰, setting in 18kt gold 750‰
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. The gold setting is mounted so that it can be detached from the silver structure.

The stones

Coral

Central, in the removable setting

Cut: Oval cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Around the setting 0,30ct Brilliant —7 natural gray diamonds

Three-quarter view: the burnished silver rising towards the gold bezel

The ring from behind: the holes go right through and let the coral show

Side view of the silver structure, pierced with round and oval holes

The ring resting on a worn wooden branch, the red of the coral facing front

Close-up from the side: the thickness of the band and the gold seats of the diamonds

The ring on the finger, flat on: the seven grey diamonds can be counted

The ring on the finger, from the side: how high the bezel sits on the hand

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Removable setting: A setting that comes away has to return to its place with the same precision every time: the seat is fitted by hand until there is no play left and the movement stays smooth. If the tolerance is loose the setting rocks, if it is tight it bends on the second fitting, and in between there is no margin to recover.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame gets closed in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that light entering from above comes back out the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli