The corolla seen from the front, with the citrine quartz in the bezel at the centre

Collection Fiore d'Inverno·Anello

Fiore d'Inverno ring in silver with citrine quartz, crossover shank

Two hammered silver arms cross beneath a corolla twenty-one millimeters across

€200,00 AA106Mq

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The shank is not a circle: two arms of hammered silver cross beneath the corolla and overlap before closing, leaving a void in the middle. Above, the flower is taken from a single sheet, hollowed until it becomes a low cup and left irregular at the rim, with the folds running from the center outwards. In the middle of the cup, in a plain setting, a round faceted citrine quartz: it is the only colored thing on the ring.

Seventeen grams of silver 925‰: the double shank is where the extra metal goes, and you feel it on the finger. The corolla measures twenty-one millimeters across. The inside is sandblasted and darkened, the border has been left polished — you feel the difference before you see it. Made by hand in Tosi's goldsmith studio. Presentation box included.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

17,00 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Sandblasted and darkened inside, polished border
Dimensions
Flower diameter approx. 21 mm
Technique
Made entirely by hand in Tosi's goldsmith studio. Crossed shank in hammered silver.

The stones

Citrine quartz

At the center of the corolla

Cut
Round faceted
Note
In a plain bezel
The ring resting next to a piece of bark, the corolla in three-quarter view
The wavy rim of the sheet, seen at an angle against the bark
Side view: the two arms of the shank that cross below the flower
The crossed shank seen from behind, with the hammered surface
The crossing of the two arms seen from above, with the back of the corolla
The flower and the shank together, in three-quarter view
The folds running from the centre of the cup toward the rim
The ring resting on its side, corolla and shank from above at an angle
The ring on the finger, seen from above
On the finger in three-quarter view: how high the flower stands on the hand
The citrine quartz in the foreground, with the hand in the background

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Corolla from a single sheet
The corolla is not an assembly of petals: it is a single sheet, hollowed until it becomes a low cup and left irregular at the rim, with the folds running from the center outwards. A wavy rim cannot be corrected twice — stretched silver does not go back — so the first fold is the one that stays. In the middle of the cup there is the one point that has to remain flat: it is the seat of the stone, and if the cup has moved there the setting will not sit.
Hammering
The shank is beaten with a hammer until the surface takes on an irregular texture. No blow is the same as the one before, so no ring is the same as another.
Sandblasting
A jet of very fine sand takes the shine off the metal and makes it velvety to the touch. Here it is used on the inside, in contrast with the border left polished.
Citrine quartz
Citrine is quartz, the same mineral species as rock crystal and amethyst: all that changes is how much iron it holds and how that iron sits in the lattice. Naturally occurring yellow is rare, and most of the citrine on the market is born amethyst and turns yellow in the kiln — a stable treatment, declared in the gem trade, that cannot be told by eye. At the seventh degree of hardness it stands up to daily wear better than almost any other colored stone; but the same firing that gives it its color can also take it away, and strong continuous light or the heat of a nearby flame will drain it. The yellow that goes does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli

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