The cabochon ruby at the centre of the openwork silver, view from above

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in oxidized silver with oval cabochon ruby and eight gray diamonds in gold bezels

Name: Marte ring in oxidized silver with oval cabochon ruby and eight gray diamonds in gold bezels
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: AA241rb
Price: 1080.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

A cabochon ruby of forty points and eight gray diamonds, on fourteen grams eighty of silver opened out into irregular voids.

€1.080,00 AA241rb

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The body of the ring is oxidized silver, opened by voids that never repeat: rounds and ovals of different sizes that pass right through, the recesses left black and the raised work brought back to polish. It is not a band: it is an irregular mass that widens into four arms above the finger, and the piercing runs down the sides as well. At the center is the ruby, a red oval cabochon polished without a single facet — the light does not enter, it stays on the dome — closed by four yellow gold claws. Around it, on the dark metal, the eight gray diamonds form no circle: they are scattered, each in its own gold claws, at different distances from the center, and two reach right out onto the tips of the arms. From behind the body is hollow: you see the silver ribbons that hold it and the holes that pass through it. Below, the band returns to smooth.

The ruby is of forty points of carat. The eight natural gray diamonds, brilliant cut, come to sixty-seven points in all — a little over eight points each, and taken together they weigh more than the stone at the center. The silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths weighs fourteen grams eighty, the eighteen-carat yellow gold ninety hundredths: fifteen grams seventy in the hand, and the gold is only where it has to hold something — the setting of the ruby and the claws of the diamonds.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

0,90 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

14,80 gramsSilver 925‰

0,40 carats Ruby · oval cabochon

0,67 carats Diamonds · eight, scattered over the silver body

Metals: Yellow gold 18kt 750‰ · Silver 925‰
Technique: Made by hand. Silver body pierced into irregular voids, oxidized in the recesses and polished on the raised work; the ruby's setting and the claws of the eight diamonds in yellow gold.

The stones

Ruby

At the center, in the gold claws

Cut: Oval cabochon
Carats: ct 0,40
Note: Single stone

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Eight, scattered over the silver body 0,67ct Brilliant —Natural gray diamonds · total

The ring resting against a branch: the burnished silver body and the gold prongs

Three-quarter view: the openings pass right through

Close front view: the gold prongs that hold the grey diamonds

From above, tilted: the eight diamonds scattered at different distances from the centre

View from the left: the body widens and the ruby stays at the edge

Three-quarter view from the left: the diamonds are spread over the four arms

The reverse: the hollow inside of the body and the silver ribbons that hold it

View from the opposite side: the ruby foreshortened in its gold bezel

The ring on the finger foreshortened: the room the body takes on the hand

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Ruby: Ruby is corundum: the same mineral species as sapphire, and between the two all that changes is the impurity locked in the lattice. The red comes from chromium, and the same chromium that gives the color makes the stone fluorescent and, in a high dose, makes it grow with more fractures: that is why a large, clear ruby is as rare as a large diamond. In hardness it stands at the ninth degree, just below diamond, and it does not fear scratching; but where fractures have been filled with glass or resin it fears heat, and whoever sets it closes the setting cold and keeps the flame away from the seat.
Irregular voids: In a geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a link comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid is left too thin, and the piece gives way exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to hold.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then brought back to polish only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out on the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli