The two earrings from the front: at the centre the round citrine quartz in the yellow gold bezel, around it the burnished silver body and the diamonds in their gold seats.

Collection Marte·Orecchini

Marte earrings in silver and gold with citrine quartz and diamonds

Name: Marte earrings in silver and gold with citrine quartz and diamonds
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: O541qb
Price: 2770.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Two checkerboard citrines, eight carats in all, on oxidized silver.

€2.770,00 O541qb

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The body of the earring is oxidized silver: a sheet pierced and hollowed, with the raised work polished and the recesses left black. At the center, inside a yellow gold setting, sits a round citrine cut checkerboard — the grid of little squares you can see on the crown of the stone. Citrine is a quartz, yellow by nature: the trade sometimes calls it topaz, but topaz is a different mineral. On the dark metal, around the stone, the diamonds are held one by one in small gold seats.

The two citrines come to eight carats in all. The natural diamonds, brilliant-cut and gray in color, reach forty-one hundredths. The silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths weighs eleven grams ten, the eighteen carat yellow gold seven sixty: the silver makes the body, the gold holds the stones. Each earring measures twenty millimeters by twenty-three and fastens with a post and an omega clip.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

7,60 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

11,10 gramsSilver 925‰

8,00 carats Citrine quartz · checkerboard

0,41 carats Diamonds · around the stone, on the silver body

Metals: Yellow gold 18kt 750‰ · Silver 925‰
Dimensions: 20 × 23 mm
Technique: Made by hand. Pierced silver body, oxidized in the recesses and polished on the raised work; settings and stone seats in yellow gold.

The stones

Citrine quartz

At the center of each earring

Cut: Checkerboard
Carats: ct 8,00
Note: Total for the two stones

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Around the stone, on the silver body 0,41ct Brilliant —Natural gray diamonds · total

The back of the two earrings, with the gold post and omega clip and the 750 hallmark on the openwork silver.

Three-quarter view: the thickness of the silver body and the omega clip open.

Shot on a piece of bark: the grid of the checkerboard cut on the crown of the two stones.

Close-up: the diamonds held one by one in small gold seats, among the voids in the silver.

The earring worn on the ear, showing its real size: twenty millimetres by twenty-three.

The two earrings next to the Marte ring from the same series, which is not included.

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then polished back only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the light on the raised work: it is a drawing made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Checkerboard cut: On the crown the facets do not converge towards a point: they cross in a grid of squares, like a checkerboard. It is a cut that does not look for sparkle but for depth of color, and that is why it is used on quartzes and on gems where the color is the subject.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.
Citrine: Citrine is quartz, the same mineral species as rock crystal and amethyst: what changes is only how much iron it has in it and how that iron sits in the lattice. Naturally occurring yellow is rare, and most of the citrine on the market is born amethyst and turns yellow in the kiln — a stable treatment, declared in the gem trade, that cannot be told by eye. At the seventh degree of hardness it stands up to daily wear better than almost any other colored stone; but the same firing that gives it its color can also take it away, and a strong, continuous light or the heat of a nearby flame will drain it. Yellow that goes does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli