The ring standing on a light stone: in profile the dome rises above the low shank.

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in domed silver band, round perforated dome with raised dots

Ten grams and twenty of silver in a hollow dome: at every knot of the net a raised bead.

€150,00 AA171AG

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

Above the finger the band swells into a round dome: it rises at the center, falls away on both sides and narrows behind into a low shank, so the ring has a front and a back. The dome is not solid — it is a silver shell of a single wall, and the wall is pierced right through: looking inside the ring you see the light coming in through the voids on the opposite side. They are roundish voids but never round, all of different sizes, and the metal remaining between one and the next runs like a net of ridges. At every knot of the net there is a raised bead, re-polished, standing out from the ground. The recesses, on the other hand, stay oxidized almost to black: from a distance the top reads as a dark stippled with pale. Inside, against the finger, the wall is flattened, and the design of the net carries on lower and narrower right under the finger.

Ten grams and twenty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, and all of it is in the shell: inside it is hollow, and that is the reason a ring of this bulk can be worn. Among the silver Marte pieces it is the same idea in a different size, and what separates them is the shape of the top — the sphere in the same collection closes a shell round on every side and weighs fifteen grams and twenty, the dome cut flat on top weighs twelve and forty-five and has smooth ridges, the two straight bands do not swell at all. Here the curve is lower and wider, it ends round, and on every knot there is a bead. On a curved shell every void is opened on a surface that runs away under the tool, and behind it there is nothing to rest against: what holds the ring up is only the solid metal remaining between one void and the next, and where too much is taken away the wall gives at exactly that point. The company offers it for women. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model is made in gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

10,20 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised work
Technique
Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. On request the same model is made in gold.
The back facing up: the mesh of ribs with a raised dot on every knot.
Almost from the front: the openings go right through and the opposite wall can be seen.
From the other side, looking inside the circle: the wall is flattened against the finger.
Sharp profile: how much the dome swells compared with the shank, which stays narrow behind.
The dome seen almost from above: the openings are rounded and no two are alike.
The ring lying on the stone: the curve of the back and the grounds burnished almost to black.
The shell is a single wall: from inside the light can be seen coming in through the openings.
The ring on the finger, seen from above: the dome covers the phalanx.
The ring on the finger, from the side: how high the back rises above the hand.
The silver Marte bands photographed together on a piece of wood: the other four are not included in the price.

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids
In geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a mesh comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid metal is left too thin, and the piece gives at exactly that spot. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to carry.
Oxidizing
The silver is darkened deliberately, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the pale on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins. The same design can be made in gold.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.