Collection Marte·Bracciale·Name in cursive lettering on a Marte ground
Oxidized silver name bracelet on a leather cord
Twenty-six grams of silver shaped around the name of whoever will wear it.
Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.
The band is a round cord of black leather, and at the center runs a silver element carrying a name written in cursive. The letters stand in relief, raised above a ground hollowed into craters and irregular ribs: the ground is oxidized almost to black, the letters are re-polished, and the name reads by contrast before it reads by projection. Along the leather run two silver keepers with the same surface, and at the ends two end caps close onto a silver clasp with a few adjustment links. From the link hangs a round tag with the company's mark and the words «Made in Florence». In the photographs the name is Francesco.
Twenty-six grams of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, twenty-two centimeters of overall length, and the central element about one centimeter across. The ground the letters rest on is the company's Marte model: the same surface of craters and raised areas that comes back on the rings and pendants of the collection. The name is not added to a finished bracelet: it is agreed first, and the silver is modeled around it, letter by letter. Changing it means remaking the whole central piece, so the choice is made once only, before the studio begins.
The material
Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.
- Metals
- Oxidized silver 925‰
- Style
- Name in cursive lettering on a Marte ground
- Finish
- Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised areas
- Dimensions
- Overall length 22 cm · silver element approx. 1 cm in diameter
- Technique
- Made by hand in the company's studio. The name is agreed before work begins: the central silver element is modeled around that name, so the bracelet is made from the start for the person who will wear it and is not a ready-made piece personalized afterwards. In the photographs the name is «Francesco».
How it is made
The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.
- The name in silver
- The name is not stamped onto a ready-made plate: the silver is modeled around those letters, in cursive, and every letter has to touch the next one or the ground that carries it, otherwise it is attached to nothing and comes off at the first knock. The length of the element changes with the name, because a short name and a long one do not take up the same stretch of wrist, and the piece exists only for that name: if the name is wrong there is no correcting it, it is made again from the start. That is why it is agreed before the work begins, and not after.
- Leather
- Leather is not a goldsmith's material: it is tanned hide, and under the flame it burns instead of heating. On a piece that puts the two materials together the metal is finished entirely first, and the cord goes in last, into the silver end caps that close around it: from that moment nothing more is soldered on the bracelet. It is also the only part that ages — it darkens where it touches the wrist, it marks in the folds, and water held in it makes it hard — while the silver can always be re-polished.
- Oxidizing
- The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi
Made for you
Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.
The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.
A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.
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