The bracelet arched over dark wood, with the dachshund tag at the top

Collection Jolly Jewels·Bracciale·Modern, casual-chic

Bracelet with silver tag and enameled dachshund on a rubber strap

A dachshund in black enamel at the center of nineteen and a half centimeters of rubber.

€290,00 JF034M

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The strap is a flat band of matt black rubber. At the center a rectangular silver plate is mounted, closed by a polished frame: inside the frame the ground is filled with black enamel, and across the black runs the outline of a dachshund seen from the side, left in reserve in the metal — the muzzle, the ear, the long back, the four short legs. Two silver keepers hold the band further forward and further back, with the same line of black enamel in a groove. At the ends two square end pieces, hammered and struck with a punch, close onto a silver lobster catch with a short chain; from the chain hangs a round tag carrying «Made in Florence» on one side and an engraved figure on the other.

Seventeen grams fifty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, nineteen and a half centimeters of overall length, nine millimeters of width for the silver and seven for the rubber. The rubber is the part that stands up to water, sweat and the act of pulling on a sleeve: that is why a bracelet like this is worn every day, and the company gives it as unisex. The enamel, on the other hand, is the part that cannot be corrected: the black fills the recess around the outline, and the dachshund is exactly what the black has not covered — either the outline comes out clean, or you start again from the plate. What family that enamel belongs to the company does not state, and it is not something to attribute by eye.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

17,50 gramsSilver 925‰
Rubber Black strap, 7 mm
Black enamel Ground of the plate and line of the keepers
Metals
Silver 925‰
Style
Modern, casual-chic
Dimensions
Overall length 19,5 cm · width 9 mm · rubber strap 7 mm
Technique
Made by hand in the company's studio. The central plate is silver, the recess filled with black enamel and the outline of the dachshund left in reserve; the two keepers along the strap also carry a line of the same enamel. The square end pieces are struck with a punch, and the clasp is a silver lobster catch with an adjustment chain. The company gives it as unisex.
The bracelet resting on a light wooden branch, shot from above along the whole strap
The bracelet laid out on a white stone, with the clasp left behind
The strap curved on the stone, shot almost level with the surface
Side view: the two silver stops and the tag between them
Macro of the tag: the outline of the dachshund left in reserve in the black enamel ground
The reverse of the round tag hanging from the chain, with the engraved figure and the 925 hallmark
The hammered square end piece at the point where the rubber enters the silver
The whole clasp: the two hallmarked end pieces, the lobster clasp and the "Made in Florence" tag
The clasp shot close up, with the adjustment chain laid out
The bracelet on a light cushion, the whole length in view
The bracelet on the wrist, view from above
The bracelet on the wrist shot edge-on, with the tag seen in profile

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Enamel
Enamel is glass: ground to a powder, laid on the metal and taken to several hundred degrees until it melts and becomes one surface with the piece. Before the fire it is wet powder that a breath will move; afterwards it cannot be retouched, because correcting one point means putting all the color already fired back into the fire, and at every pass you risk a bubble, a cooling crack and the color turning. The families have names of their own and are told apart by how the metal holds the color: champlevé, when the color sits in recesses cut into the sheet; cloisonné, when it sits inside little walls of wire soldered to the ground; cold enamel, when instead of glass there is a resin that hardens without fire. They are different techniques, and they are not attributed by eye.
Rubber
Rubber is not metal: it cannot be soldered, polished or annealed. On a piece that mounts it together with silver all the flame work is finished first, and the band goes in last, into the end pieces that close around it; from that moment nothing on the bracelet is heated again. In exchange it stands up to what skin does not — water, sweat, soap — and it stays the same width for the whole life of the piece, because it does not stretch with use. What it fears is heat and solvents: perfume, alcohol and oils attack rubber, and rubber that has been attacked cracks instead of softening.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.