Collection Marte·Bracciale·Organic, irregular design
Marte bracelet in oxidized silver with irregular links, engraved lobster clasp
Twenty-two centimeters of oxidized silver links, and none the same as the one beside it.
Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.
The links are long and oval, and none is the same as the one before: each is a silver ring of irregular section, hollowed into craters and opened into voids that pass right through, and between one long link and the next runs a small round smooth ring that keeps them in line. The metal is oxidized almost to black in the recesses and re-polished on the raised areas, so the design reads by contrast even with the arm still. At one end the chain finishes on a lobster clasp whose body is not a tube but a round tag: on one side the company's mark is engraved, on the other the words «Made in Florence». At the other end is the large ring the hook closes on.
Twenty-two centimeters of overall length and five millimeters sixty of width, for twenty-one grams twenty-six of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths: that is a lot for a chain of this width, and it is all in the links. The company calls it semi-rigid, and laid down it holds its shape; on the wrist, though, it is a chain, and it falls. The links do not repeat a module: they were closed one by one, and the irregularity is the first thing you see. The clasp is the only part that works at every use, and it is also the only one on which a bracelet is lost.
The material
Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.
- Metals
- Oxidized silver 925‰
- Style
- Organic, irregular design
- Finish
- Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised areas
- Dimensions
- Overall length 22 cm · width 5,60 mm
- Technique
- Made in 925‰ silver and finished by hand: the links oxidized and then re-polished on the raised areas, the tag of the clasp engraved with the company's mark.
How it is made
The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.
- Irregular voids
- In a geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided while it is being opened. The risk shifts: not that a mesh comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid is left too thin, and the piece gives way from exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that go in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to hold.
- Oxidizing
- The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the light on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
- Lobster clasp
- The lobster clasp closes by itself: a hook with a catch loaded by a spring, which draws in when pressed and returns to its place as soon as it is let go. It is the only part of the piece that works at every use, and the spring is the smallest part of all: if it is too stiff the catch does not draw fully in and a gap is left, if it is too soft a pulling fabric is enough to open it. It has to be attached at the end of the chain with a soldered ring and never with an open one, because a ring that widens gives way before the spring does, and at that point the bracelet is lost without the clasp having done anything wrong.
I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi
Made for you
Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.
The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.
A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.
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