The pair resting against light stones, the two pearls inside the darkened hollow

Collection Creazioni in Argento·Orecchini

Open-drop sterling silver dangle earrings with freshwater pearl

Six centimeters of hollow drop, and the silver behind the pearl is darkened on purpose so the white shows.

€270,00 OL48O2ma

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The body of the earring is a long, hollow drop. A wide silver ribbon starts at the top, runs down, turns at the bottom and comes back up: on the turn it is hollowed like a spoon, and the hollow is darkened almost to black while the edge that bounds it has been polished to a mirror. Over the same path runs a second, thinner ribbon, drawing a second drop inside the first and leaving a narrow void between the two. Inside the hollow, resting where the turn is widest, sits the white pearl: the black behind it is not an accident, it is what holds its sheen — on a polished ground the pearl would have blurred into the silver. At the top the ribbon narrows and becomes the leverback hook, tapering to a point and passing behind the lobe.

Six centimeters tall counting the hook, and twelve grams fifty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths: the company states that weight once only, without saying whether it is for one earring or for the pair, and we do not decide that in their place. The pearl measures twelve millimeters by nine and a half: the company calls it round, but those two numbers say it is slightly flattened, and you can see it in the photographs. Whether it is cultured or natural is written nowhere, and we do not write it in their place. One thing does hold for every pearl: they are calcium carbonate held together by an organic substance, they sit around the third degree of hardness and they dissolve in acids, so they go on after the perfume and come off first. On these earrings there is a second reason to do so: the darkened silver behind the pearl is what makes the piece, and a cloth rubbed too hard in there takes it away.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

12,50 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Oxidized in the hollow, polished on the edges and the hook
Dimensions
Height with the leverback hook 6 cm · pearl 12,00 × 9,5 mm
Technique
Made by hand: the silver ribbon bent into a drop and hollowed along its length, the ground darkened and the edges polished to a mirror, the second thin ribbon that draws the inner drop, the pearl settled into the hollow, the leverback hook drawn from the same ribbon as it rises.

The stones

Freshwater pearl

One per earring, resting in the hollow of the drop

Cut
Uncut
Note
12,00 × 9,5 mm; the company does not state whether they are cultured or natural, and the carat weight is not stated
Close-up in three-quarter view: the black of the ground against the mirror-polished edge
Front view: the thin ribbon that draws a second drop inside the first
The two earrings standing, with the leverback hooks at their full length

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Pearl
The pearl is the only gem produced by a living animal, and it is not a mineral like the others: it is aragonite — calcium carbonate — held together by conchiolin, an organic substance the mollusc lays down between one layer and the next. That organic part is its weak point. On the hardness scale a pearl sits around three: it scratches with a fingernail, and the metal of another piece of jewelry marks it at the first contact. But the scratch is not the worst damage: being a carbonate it dissolves in acids, and sweat, perfume, hairspray and vinegar corrode the surface until the sheen goes out. It goes on last, after the perfume, and comes off first; it is cleaned with a barely damp cloth and put away dry, never shut in a bag where no air passes. And the thread or cord that holds it is watched too: it is the part that ages first, and it should be replaced before it gives, not after.
Oxidizing
The silver is darkened on purpose, and then polished back only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the light on the raised work: it is a drawing made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Leverback fastening
The hook passes behind the lobe and closes on itself. It goes on in one movement, has no screws to lose and carries the weight without pulling.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.