The ring in three-quarter view on a light stone: the wide band pierced all the way around

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte wedding ring in sterling silver with a wide 14.90 mm band, pierced through and through

Fourteen millimeters ninety of band pierced right through: from inside you can see the light.

€250,00 AA181AG

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

It is a single band, the same height all the way round, and it has no front: whichever point you wear over the finger, the pattern is the same. The surface is not smooth and it is not engraved: it is pierced. The holes are round and oval, of different diameters, and they go right through, so the ring is a pierced wall and from inside you see the light coming in from outside. Between one hole and the next a ridge of metal is left, and the ridges widen where they happen to and touch one another with no step that repeats. The recesses stay black, the ridges are polished back: the pattern comes forward by contrast even before it does by relief. The two edges are not cut straight either — they follow the voids and undulate.

Fourteen millimeters ninety high: on the finger it covers almost the whole knuckle, and it is this measurement that separates it from the other silver Marte pieces, which are the same idea in different sizes. Thirteen grams seventy of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, and not one of those grams is hidden: they are all in the wall, which is the only thing holding the circle. On a band pierced right through, the metal left is drawing and structure at once, and where a hole widens too far the solid part beside it becomes the weak point of the whole ring. The company gives it as a man's ring. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model can be made in gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

13,70 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised work
Dimensions
Band height 14,90 mm
Technique
Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. On request the same model can be made in gold.
The ring standing: the holes pass from outside to inside, and the wall can be seen through
The ring lying flat, with the upper edge left wavy
Edge-on view: the height of the band from one edge to the other
The ring from the front, the craters of different diameters one next to the other
Three-quarter view from above: the edge and the inner wall together
The ring tilted, with the blackened recesses in contrast against the polished ridges
The ring on the finger: the band covers almost the whole phalanx
On the finger seen from above, with the hand relaxed

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids
In geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a link comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid part is left too thin, and the piece gives way exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to hold.
Oxidizing
The silver is darkened on purpose, and then polished back only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the light on the raised work: it is a drawing made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before work begins. The same design can be made in gold.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.