The ring balanced on a light pebble: the copper-red corolla with the rose quartz at the centre

Collection Fiore d'Inverno·Anello

Small Fiore d'Inverno ring in silver with rose quartz and copper red enamel

Fourteen millimeters of corolla and three grams twenty: the small flower of the collection.

€120,00 AA146p

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

A silver flower of fourteen millimeters on a round, slender shank: it is the small size of the collection, and in the hand it weighs as much as a coin. Inside the cup the enamel is copper red, dark and warm, run through with lighter striations and a few golden flashes where the color thins over the folds. At the center, in a round setting a few millimeters wide, a faceted rose quartz so pale that against the red ground it looks white. The outline of the corolla stays polished silver and runs wavy all round.

Three grams twenty of 925 silver against the thirteen of the large flower: the studio offers it as a little-finger ring for an adult or as a first ring for a girl. On fourteen millimeters, though, it is not only the scale that changes, it is the margin: the seat of the stone has to be found at the center of a cup already hollowed by hand, and at this size half a millimeter off axis reads with the naked eye. The studio does not state either the carat weight or the cut of the quartz, and does not state which of the enameling techniques the copper red belongs to.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

3,20 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Copper-red enamel inside the corolla, polished outline
Dimensions
Flower diameter about 14 mm (small size)
Technique
Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio.

The stones

Rose quartz

At the center of the corolla

Color
Pale pink
Note
Faceted stone. Carat weight and cut not stated
On the stone slab, the flower seen from the front from just above
Close to the surface: the corolla almost edge-on and the shank passing below
The back: the raw silver behind the cup and the round shank seen from inside
Three-quarter view from above: the wavy rim and the light veining inside the red
Standing on a point of stone, seen in profile
Front view, with the thin shank running straight down below the flower
In three-quarter view against the light: how small the cup is compared with the shank
The flower seen from above: the tiny bezel in the middle of the enamel
Worn: on the finger the flower stays within the width of the phalanx
Worn with the hand turned, for the real size of the flower
Resting on dry branches, the copper red against the light wood

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Corolla from a single sheet
The corolla is not an assembly of petals: it is a single sheet, hollowed into a shallow cup and left irregular at the rim, with the folds starting at the center and going outwards. The wavy rim is not corrected twice — stretched silver does not come back — so the first fold is the one that stays. In the middle of the cup is the only point that has to stay flat: it is the seat of the stone, and if the cup has moved there the setting does not sit.
Enamel
Enamel is glass: ground to a powder, laid on the metal and taken to several hundred degrees until it melts and becomes one surface with the piece. Before the fire it is a wet powder that a breath will move; afterwards it is not retouched, because correcting one point means sending all the color already fired back onto the fire as well, and at every pass you risk the bubble, the cooling crack and the color that shifts. The families have their own names and are recognized by how the metal holds the color: champlevé, when the color sits in hollows cut into the sheet; cloisonné, when it sits inside small walls of wire soldered to the ground; cold enamel, when in place of the glass there is a resin that hardens without fire. They are different techniques, and they are not attributed by eye.
Rose quartz
Rose quartz is the same mineral species as citrine and amethyst, but the pink does not come to it from iron: it comes from microscopic fibers of another mineral grown inside the crystal, and it is on those that the light scatters. Hence the milky veil the stone almost always has, and the reason a clear rose quartz is rare: in a block the clean zone from which a faceted stone can be taken is small, and the cutter has to find it before sawing. At the seventh degree of hardness it stands up to everyday use; the weak point is the color, which strong continuous light drains until the stone is left almost white. The pink that goes does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli

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