The two corollas side by side: blackened ground, polished wavy rim, a citrine quartz at the centre of each

Collection Fiore d'Inverno·Orecchini

Fiore d'Inverno earrings in blackened silver with citrine quartz, twenty-millimeter corollas

Twenty millimeters of corolla per lobe, on a blackened ground

€230,00 OA123

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

Two silver corollas of twenty millimeters, the rim left wavy and polished, the inside sandblasted and blackened. Inside the black the grooves that run out from the center can be counted one by one, and at the center of each sits a round citrine quartz in a polished setting. The lever back stays open behind the lobe.

Eleven grams of silver, and thirty-two millimeters of length per earring, corolla included. The black is not oxidation left to happen: it is put on deliberately over the whole cup and then only the rim is re-polished, so that the yellow of the stone has a ground to lift off. On two pieces worn together the same hand has to stop at the same point twice.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

11,00 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Sandblasted and blackened inside, polished edge
Dimensions
Diameter of the flower about 20 mm · length of the earring 32 mm
Clasp
Open lever back
Technique
All made by hand in the goldsmith's studio at Tosi.

The stones

Citrine quartz

At the center of each corolla

Cut
Round faceted
Note
Two natural stones
The two earrings resting on a dry branch, seen from the front
Hanging from the branch by the hook: how they hang and how the ear wire falls can be seen
One above and one below, with the open ear wire clearly readable
Close shot of the blackened grooves running from the bezel toward the rim
The two earrings edge-on: how shallow the cup is and how long the hook is can be read
The back of one corolla, with the join of the hook soldered on the rim
The two flowers at different heights on the branch, with the yellow of the stones in the light
Worn: the earring on the lobe gives the size of the corolla and the overall length

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Corolla from a single sheet
The corolla is not an assembly of petals: it is a single sheet, hollowed until it becomes a shallow cup and left irregular at the rim, with the folds running out from the center. The wavy rim cannot be corrected twice — stretched silver does not go back — so the first fold is the one that stays. In the middle of the cup is the one point that has to stay flat: it is the seat of the stone, and if the cup has moved there the setting does not sit.
Sandblasting
A jet of very fine sand takes the shine off the metal and makes it velvety to the touch. Here it is used inside, in contrast with the edge left polished.
Lever back clasp
The hook passes behind the lobe and closes on itself. It goes on with one movement, has no screws to lose and carries the weight without pulling.
Citrine quartz
Citrine is quartz, the same mineral species as rock crystal and amethyst: all that changes is how much iron it holds and how that iron sits in the lattice. Yellow of natural origin is rare, and most of the citrine on the market is born amethyst and turns yellow in the kiln — a stable treatment, declared in the gem trade, which cannot be told by eye. At the seventh degree of hardness it stands up to daily wear better than almost any other colored stone; but the same firing that gives it its color can also take it away, and strong continuous light or the heat of a nearby flame will drain it. Yellow once gone does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.