The necklace on a neck display: the six strands of iolite fall in a fan and the group of silver flowers rests to one side

Collection Fiore d'Inverno·Collana·Floral motif drawn from winter flowers

Fiore d'Inverno necklace with six strands of iolite and labradorite

Six strands of iolite and labradorite, and the clasp is the bunch of silver flowers worn to one side.

€920,00 CA139

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

Six strands of iolite strung by hand, and between one bead and the next the white labradorite breaking the purple. The color is never even: within the same strand it runs from a full blue-violet to beads that are almost colorless, and the sequence never comes back the same. The strands are not all the same length, the shortest is the inner one, and they fall one below the other. The clasp sits at one side, and it is a group of silver corollas with wavy rims, each with a single stone at the center: orange citrine quartz, purple amethyst, blue iolite, dark red ruby root, green peridot.

Thirty-one grams and fifty of silver 925, and fifty-two centimeters measured on the inner strand: the other five are progressively longer, and the fan opens below the throat. The ends of the strands are not knotted together: each is wound onto a ring soldered to the back of a corolla, and from there the weight passes to the hook. On the reverse the settings are open — the light passes through the stones instead of stopping on a back — and beside the holes are the silver hallmarks. The studio declares the carat weight of none of the gems.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

31,50 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Style
Floral motif drawn from winter flowers
Finish
Polished
Dimensions
Length 52 cm (measured on the inner edge)
Technique
Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio.

The stones

Iolite

On the six strands, and at the center of one flower of the clasp

Color
Blu-violetto
Note
Natural stone, strung by hand. Carat weight not declared

Labradorite

On the six strands, alternating with the iolite

Color
Bianco traslucido
Note
Natural stone, strung by hand. Carat weight not declared

Citrine quartz

On the flowers of the clasp

Color
Arancione
Note
Carat weight not declared

Amethyst

On the flowers of the clasp

Color
Viola
Note
Carat weight not declared

Ruby root

On the flowers of the clasp

Color
Rosso scuro
Note
Carat weight not declared

Peridot

On the flowers of the clasp

Color
Verde
Note
Carat weight not declared
Close view on a light bust: the strands step down one below the other, the shortest on the inside
The necklace seen from the front: the alternation between the purple beads of iolite and the white ones of labradorite can be read
The group of corollas resting against a block of marble: each flower carries a single stone at the centre
Close-up of the hanging strands: the iolite goes from full blue-violet to almost colourless beads
The corollas close up: wavy edge, radial folds in the base, and at the centre citrine, amethyst, ruby root and peridot
The necklace hanging from a branch: the six strands run down parallel as far as the flowers
The clasp resting on the bust: all the strands gather on the same side of the neck
The back of the clasp: the silver hook fastened to the ring, and the ends of the strands wound onto the small rings
The reverse of the corollas: the bezels are open and let the light through, next to the holes are the silver hallmarks
Overall shot with the Fiore d'Inverno earrings with amethyst: the earrings are not included in the price

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Stringing by hand
The stones are strung one at a time, and the thread that holds them has to carry the weight of them all. The holes never fall exactly at the center of the bead: whoever strings them decides which side to go in, because a bead turned the wrong way makes a step and the thread runs crooked. The last operation is the knot, and it has to be closed with the thread already under tension: slightly loose and the necklace bellies, slightly over-tightened and it stops falling.
Corolla from a single sheet
The corolla is not an assembly of petals: it is a single sheet, hollowed until it becomes a shallow cup and left irregular at the rim, with the folds running out from the center. The wavy rim cannot be corrected twice — stretched silver does not go back — so the first fold is the one that stays. In the middle of the cup is the one point that has to stay flat: it is the seat of the stone, and if the cup has moved there the setting does not sit.
Load-bearing clasp
On a multi-strand necklace the clasp does not only close: it gathers. All the ends finish there, wound one at a time onto rings soldered at the back, and from those rings the weight of the whole necklace passes to the hook. That is why the clasp sits at one side and not behind the nape: it is the part that is seen, and at the same time the only one that can give. The hook has to open with one finger and not open by itself, and between those two things there is nothing but the precision with which it is bent.
Iolite
Iolite changes color according to the direction you look at it from: along one axis it is a full blue-violet, along another almost colorless. The color of every bead is therefore decided by whoever cuts it, at the moment of choosing how to orient it, and on a strand half a meter long that choice is repeated bead after bead. It is why in a strand of iolite the beads are never all the same blue.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.