The ring seen from above: the gold disc with the seven yellow sapphires around the diamond, on the pierced silver mass

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in silver and gold with seven yellow sapphires around a diamond and blue sapphires

Name: Marte ring in silver and gold with seven yellow sapphires around a diamond and blue sapphires
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A894zd
Price: 1150.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Seven yellow sapphires in a circle around a diamond, inside a gold disc mounted on silver hollowed into craters.

€1.150,00 A894zd

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

At the center there is a yellow gold disc, and inside the disc seven yellow sapphires close a circle around a diamond. None of these stones has a flat table: the facets rise to a point from a flat base, and the light comes out as a star instead of in flashes. Around and beneath, the silver is a mass hollowed into craters, oxidized in the recesses and polished back only on the raised work, so the voids stay black and the drawing comes forward on its own. The holes go right through: you can see them on the band too, looking at the ring edge on. On the silver, set apart from one another, sit the blue sapphires, each held by its own gold claws.

The diamond at the center is five hundredths of a carat; the sapphires — the seven yellow ones in the circle and the blue ones planted in the silver — come to forty-five in all. The weight, on the other hand, is almost all in the silver: ten grams eighty, against two fifty of eighteen carat yellow gold, which is all of it where the stones are. Every point where the gold touches the silver is a join between two metals that do not behave the same way under the flame, and here those points are not one: there is the central disc, and there is the setting of every blue sapphire.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

10,80 gramsSilver 925‰

2,50 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

0,45 carats Yellow sapphires · rose cut

0,05 carats Diamonds · center, in the gold disc

Metals: Silver 925‰ and yellow gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio: the silver pierced and oxidized in the recesses, then polished back on the raised work; the gold disc that gathers the diamond and the seven yellow sapphires; the blue sapphires set one by one on their gold claws.

The stones

Yellow sapphires

Seven in a circle in the gold disc, around the diamond

Cut: Rose cut
Carats: ct 0,45
Note: The stated total also includes the blue sapphires

Blue sapphires

In the silver, each held by its own gold claws

Note: Included in the total of ct 0,45

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Center, in the gold disc 0,05ct Rose cut —Natural diamond

The piece lying on a block of stone, shot in three-quarter view from a low height

The ring standing: the inside of the band and the space beneath the silver dome are visible

Overall view from a distance, the piece balanced on the stone

The band from the front: the craters of the silver and two blue sapphires on the shoulders

Close-up of the gold disc: the pointed facets of the yellow sapphires and of the central diamond

The ring resting on a piece of wood, in three-quarter view, with the gold disc turned to the left

Close-up on wood: the circle of seven yellow sapphires around the diamond

Side view on wood: the silver openwork against the light

The ring slipped between thin branches, the left side in view

The same resting place among the branches, shot closer on the gold disc

The ring worn, to show how much room it takes on the hand

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids: In geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided as it is opened. The risk shifts: not that a link comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid part is left too thin, and the piece gives way exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that pull in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to hold.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then polished back only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the light on the raised work: it is a drawing made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Cluster setting: The cluster, «entourage» in the French catalogs, is a circle of small stones set around a larger one. The eye does not measure the center stone on its own: it reads it together with the halo, and sees it as larger than it is. It is the reason the setting has been used for centuries, and at the same time its difficulty: the seats of the halo all have to be at the same height and the same distance from the center, because one alone out of plane breaks the circle, and in a circle the error shows before anything else.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli