The ring from the front: at the centre the checkerboard citrine quartz in the yellow gold bezel, around it the burnished silver pierced with craters and the grey diamonds.

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in silver and gold with checkerboard citrine quartz and gray diamonds

Name: Marte ring in silver and gold with checkerboard citrine quartz and gray diamonds
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A876qcb
Price: 1215.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

A four-carat checkerboard-cut citrine quartz, in a gold setting above the pierced silver.

€1.215,00 A876qcb

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The body of the ring is oxidized silver, pierced right through: the recesses stay black, the raised areas come back bright. At the center, in a yellow gold setting held by four grains, sits a checkerboard-cut citrine quartz — the grid of small squares you can see on the crown of the stone. Citrine is a quartz, yellow by nature: the trade sometimes calls it topaz, but topaz is another mineral. Around it, on the dark metal, the gray diamonds are planted one by one, each held by four gold grains. It is the same design as the Marte earrings with citrine quartz, and in one of these photographs the three pieces are together.

The citrine quartz is four carats, the same size as each of the two stones in the earrings. The natural gray brilliant-cut diamonds come to twenty-four points in all. The silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths weighs thirteen grams, the eighteen-carat yellow gold two and fifty: fifteen and a half grams in the hand, and almost all of it silver. The gold is only where it has to hold something — the setting of the stone and the grains of the diamonds.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

2.50 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

13.00 gramsSilver 925‰

4.00 carats Citrine quartz · checkerboard

0.24 carats Diamonds · around the stone, on the silver body

Metals: Yellow gold 18kt 750‰ · Silver 925‰
Technique: Made by hand. Body in pierced and drilled silver, oxidized in the recesses and polished on the raised areas; the setting of the center stone and the grains that hold the diamonds in yellow gold.

The stones

Citrine quartz

At the center, in the gold setting

Cut: Checkerboard
Carats: ct 4.00
Note: Unique stone

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Around the stone, on the silver body 0.24ct Brilliant —Natural gray diamonds · total

Front shot slightly tilted: the four gold grains that hold the stone and the diamonds in their own grains on the silver.

Three-quarter view from the left: the gold bezel projects from the silver body and how high the stone rises is visible.

Side view: the thickness of the silver and the holes that cross it right through.

The ring seen from behind: the inside of the band and the pavilion of the stone glimpsed between the openings.

Macro on a piece of bark: the grid of the checkerboard cut on the crown of the quartz and the diamonds held one by one by the gold grains.

On the bark, in three-quarter view: the dark recesses of the burnishing against the re-polished raised parts.

Again on the wood, tilted: the craters of the silver seen from above.

Shot on the wood with the colour of the citrine in full light.

The ring on the finger, showing its real size on the hand.

On the finger, in three-quarter view: how high the bezel rises above the hand.

The ring next to the two Marte earrings from the same series, which are not included.

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Checkerboard cut: On the crown the facets do not converge towards a point: they cross in a grid of squares, like a checkerboard. It is a cut that looks not for sparkle but for the depth of the color, and that is why it is used on quartzes and on gems where the color is the subject.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black from the flame is shut in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dead.
Citrine quartz: Citrine is quartz, the same mineral species as rock crystal and amethyst: what changes is only how much iron it has inside and how that iron sits in the lattice. Yellow of natural origin is rare, and most of the citrine on the market begins as amethyst and turns yellow in a kiln — a stable treatment, declared in the gem trade, that cannot be recognized by eye. At the seventh degree of hardness it takes daily wear better than almost any other colored stone; but the same firing that gives it the color can also take it away, and strong continuous light or the heat of a nearby flame discharges it. The yellow that goes does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli