The oval turquoise between the silver arms and the six grey diamonds in gold bezels

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in silver with branches with oval turquoise and six gray diamonds in gold settings

Name: Marte ring in silver with branches with oval turquoise and six gray diamonds in gold settings
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: A875btu
Price: 750.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Six gray diamonds for fifty-eight points, each raised in its own gold setting on the tip of a silver branch.

€750,00 A875btu

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The turquoise is an oval cabochon, pale blue, set at an angle on the head of the ring: no continuous bezel closes it, it is held by silver arms that bend over it like branches. Around it, the silver is not a smooth band but a crust pierced right through, oxidized in the recesses and brought back to polish on the raised work, so the black stays inside the craters and the bright on the edges. On the branches sit six gray diamonds, each raised in its own yellow gold four-claw setting, planted without symmetry: two near the stone, the others stepped away towards the shoulders. From behind the head is hollow, you look right through it, and under the finger the band returns to smooth.

Thirteen grams sixty of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths against one gram of eighteen-carat gold: the silver weighs almost fourteen times the gold, and the gold is all in the six settings, that is, in the one place that touches the diamonds and that does not blacken as silver does. The diamonds are natural, brilliant cut, gray in color, and they come to fifty-eight points of carat: a little under ten points each. Turquoise is soft — between five and six on the Mohs scale, less hard than the quartz in any household dust — and porous: acids, cosmetics, perfumes and heat change its color. It comes off before washing your hands and is cleaned with a dry cloth.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

13,60 gramsSilver 925‰

1,00 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

0,58 carats Diamonds · on the branches, around the stone

Metals: Silver 925‰ · Yellow gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made entirely by hand in the maker's goldsmith studio. Silver body pierced and pitted with craters, oxidized in the recesses and brought back to polish on the raised work; the arms holding the stone in silver, the settings for the six diamonds in yellow gold.

The stones

Turquoise

At the center, between the silver arms

Cut: Oval cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

On the branches, around the stone 0,58ct Brilliant —6 natural gray diamonds, in yellow gold settings · total

The head from the front: the silver prongs closed over the turquoise cabochon

The ring standing: the smooth band under the finger, the pierced crust on the shoulders

Three-quarter view, the craters of the burnished silver on the shoulder

The right side, with the four-prong gold bezels raised on the branches

The openwork that passes right through beneath the head

From behind: the head is hollow beneath the stone

The hollow inside of the head, seen from the side

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Turquoise: Turquoise is a soft, porous stone: it scratches easily and drinks in whatever it touches. That is why it is not faceted but roughed down and polished into a dome, and why it is set last, on a mounting that is cold and finished: under the flame turquoise turns green, and it does not come back. Almost all turquoise on the market is stabilized with resin precisely so that it can stand up to cutting, polishing and setting. Whoever wears it has one rule only: the piece comes off before perfumes, creams and detergents, because acids, cosmetics and heat put out its blue, and the blue once lost does not return.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then brought back to polish only where the light has to return. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised work: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Setting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black of the flame is sealed in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out on the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli