The ring standing on a light stone: the openwork band between the two grooved edges

Collection Rinascimento·Anello·Florentine style, acanthus-leaf piercing

Acantus leaf carved filigree band ring in silver

Six grams of silver, no stones, and between one leaf and the next you can see through the ring.

€300,00 AA278F

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The band is not solid: between one leaf and the next the metal has been taken away right through, and you can look through the ring. The design is an acanthus vine that runs all the way round with no beginning and no end — curled leaves overlapping one another, each raised from the ground and then lined with the burin in parallel grooves following its fold, so the light takes them one vein at a time. Above and below, the field is closed by two flat borders, engraved with close lines, and between the border and the piercing runs a row of tiny grains, all of the same size. Inside there is nothing to hide: from within you see the same voids, with the cuts left clean.

Six grams of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, and no stones. There is nothing else to look at but the metal, so what the ring is lies entirely in how much has been taken away from it and in how it was taken away. The ground between the leaves is opened with the saw and every cut is final; silver is also softer than gold, and under the burin it forgives less — the groove widens if the hand presses a gram too hard, and on an already pierced band there is no thickness left to recover. The same ring the studio also makes in gold and as a matching pair, one band wider and one narrower, worn as engagement rings.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

6.00 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Style
Florentine style, acanthus-leaf piercing
Finish
Polished
Technique
Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio with piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving: the ground between the leaves cut away right through, the leaves raised in relief and lined with the burin, the two borders engraved with parallel lines and separated from the field by a row of grains. On request the same ring is made in gold, and as a matching pair.
Close-up of the acanthus vine: the leaves raised in relief and grooved with burin engraving
The ring from the front: through the openwork it can be seen right through
The ring lying flat in three-quarter view, with the inside of the band in view
The band from the side: the row of tiny grains between the edge and the openwork field
The ring resting on the edge of the stone, overall shot
View from a distance, for the relation between the height of the band and the design
Shot from above: the continuous run of the vine, with no beginning or end
The ring worn: the band on the finger and the depth of the openwork
The two matching bands for Him and for Her side by side: this listing is for one ring only

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Openwork
The metal is drilled and then cut away from the inside with a very fine saw blade, until the solid plate becomes a design of voids. It is a process that allows no second attempt: what is taken away does not come back.
Burin engraving
The burin is a goldsmith's small chisel pushed by hand. It does not scratch: it lifts a shaving of metal and leaves a clean groove that catches the light. It is the mark that for five centuries has set the Florentine goldsmiths' school apart.
Repoussé and chasing
Repoussé raises the relief by beating the metal from the back; chasing finishes it from the front, with punches that do not cut but move. You work on a plate that has to give just enough and no more: a blow that is too hard thins it on the other side, and where the metal is already pierced that point can no longer be strengthened.
Beading the edge
Along the line of the edge a steel wheel with a round groove is pushed by hand: at every pass it raises the metal into a row of identical grains, which are not applied but drawn out of the plate itself. The wheel has to be held at the same depth and the same distance from the edge all the way round — if it slows the grains lengthen, if it wanders it goes into the engraved field, and a missed grain cannot be done again, because at that point the metal has already been drawn away.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.