The flower from the front: polished wavy rim, sandblasted and darkened inside, oval amethyst in the bezel at the centre

Collection Fiore d'Inverno·Anello

Sterling silver Fiore d'Inverno ring with amethyst, twenty-eight millimeter corolla

Twenty-eight millimeters of corolla, twenty-four grams of silver

€250,00 AA106G

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

Twenty-eight millimeters of corolla: the flower covers the knuckle and projects beyond the finger. The edge is left wavy and bright, the inside is sandblasted and darkened and the grooves that run out from the center stay black inside it. In the middle an oval amethyst in a polished setting, and below, the stem splits in two and crosses over itself.

Twenty-four grams of silver, seven more than its brother with the twenty-one millimeter corolla: almost all of it is in the cup, which at this diameter has to stay thin so as not to weigh and at the same time carry the setting at the center. The darkened inside is what makes the rest work: on the black ground the purple reads, and the bright edge runs around it as a single line.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

24.00 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Sandblasted and darkened inside, polished around the edge
Dimensions
Flower diameter approx. 28 mm
Technique
Made by hand in the Tosi goldsmith's studio. Crossover shank in hammered silver.

The stones

Amethyst

At the center of the flower

Cut
Briolette
Three-quarter view from the right, with the shank glimpsed below the corolla
The flower tilted, with the darkened grooves running from the bezel to the rim
Close shot of the amethyst and the polished bezel that holds it
The flower seen foreshortened: the lobed outline of the corolla can be read
The ring lying down: the two arms of the crossed shank seen from the side
The shank from above: the two hammered silver bands that overlap
The back of the ring, with the inside of the band and the join of the corolla
Resting against a branch, the flower in three-quarter view against the bark
The flower from the front on a light background, with the polished rim standing out from the darkened ground
Set on a dry trunk, with the crossed shank in shadow
Worn: the corolla covers the phalanx and gives the measure of the twenty-eight millimeters
Worn in three-quarter view, with the flower projecting beyond the outline of the finger

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Corolla from a single plate
The corolla is not an assembly of petals: it is a single plate, hollowed until it becomes a low cup and left irregular at the edge, with the folds running from the center outwards. The wavy edge cannot be corrected twice — silver once drawn does not go back — so the first fold is the one that stays. In the middle of the cup there is the one point that has to stay flat: it is the seat of the stone, and if the cup has moved there the setting does not sit.
Hammering
The shank is beaten with a hammer until the surface takes on an irregular texture. No blow is the same as the one before it, so no ring is the same as another.
Briolette cut
The stone is faceted over its whole surface, underneath as well: it is made to have the light pass through it rather than to rest on a ground.
Sandblasting
A jet of very fine sand makes the metal matt and velvety to the touch. Here it is used on the inside, in contrast with the outline left bright.
Amethyst
Amethyst is purple quartz, and the purple does not come from a pigment: it comes from a few atoms of iron that ended up in the lattice in place of silicon and were then struck by the natural radiation of the rock. That is why the color is almost never laid evenly — it arranges itself in areas and bands, heavier on one side and lighter on the other — and orienting the stone properly under the wheel is exactly what distributes it. It is as hard as citrine, the seventh degree, and it can be worn every day without care for scratches; but that purple is the most delicate thing it has. Strong continuous light fades it, and heat erases it altogether: an amethyst heated enough turns yellow, and that is how a good part of the citrine on the market comes about. The purple that goes does not come back.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.