The pendant hanging from the chain on a light background, overall view (the chain is not included)

Collection Marte·Pendente

Marte pendant in gold with a drop-shaped Tahitian pearl with aubergine-green reflections and a diamond

Thirteen millimeters six of Tahitian pearl, gray by nature, not dyed.

€1.270,00 P632bp/1

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The pearl is the large part: a dark gray Tahitian drop, with an aubergine sheen at the center and flashes of green and bronze where the surface turns. Above it a yellow gold cap holds it, worked in relief with irregular voids, modeled on the surface of Mars — craters and hollows — which is the drawing of the whole collection. In the cap, off center, sits a single brilliant-cut diamond. The chain in the photographs is not included: what is sold is the pendant.

Twenty-six millimeters tall by fourteen wide, and the pearl measures thirteen six across: almost the whole width of the pendant is pearl, the gold does not stand out at the sides. Four grams of eighteen carat gold, and five hundredths of a carat of diamond, color G and clarity VVS. The gray is not a treatment: the nacre comes out of the Tahitian oyster like that. And it is soft — it scratches with a fingernail — so it has to be kept away from perfume and hairspray, and put away dry.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

4,00 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰
0,05 carats Diamonds · on the cap
Metals
Yellow gold 18kt 750‰
Dimensions
26 × 14 mm
Technique
Made entirely by hand. The gold cap that grips the pearl is worked into craters and irregular openings, one at a time.

The stones

Tahitian pearl

Body of the pendant

Note
Gray pearl, drop shape, diameter 13,60 mm

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

On the cap 0,05ct Brilliant G VVSOne natural diamond
The drop pearl and the gold cap resting against a light stone
The gold cap in three-quarter view, with the fitting for the chain
The pendant from the side, resting on the edge of the marble
Close-up on the chain: the aubergine reflection at the centre of the pearl
Close-up of the cap: the raised parts and the hollows shaped like craters
The pearl seen from the other side, with the cap foreshortened
On a dark background: the green and bronze flashes on the edge of the pearl
The pendant resting on a piece of driftwood, wide view
The drop of the pearl resting on the wood, with the chain gathered (not included)
Close-up on the wood: the diamond in the cap and the tip of the drop

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Tahitian pearl
The pearl is the only gem produced by a living animal. It is not a crystal grown in rock: it is nacre, which the oyster lays down in very thin layers around a nucleus, one on top of another for years, and the light you see on the surface is the sum of those layers. The gray of Tahitians is theirs by birth: it comes from Pinctada margaritifera, the black-lipped oyster, and it is not a dye. But nacre is soft: it scratches with a fingernail, and perfume, hairspray, vinegar and sweat corrode the surface until the sheen goes out. It is put away dry, and never shut in a bag where no air passes.
Brilliant cut
Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every piece leaves the bench made to order: sizes and details are agreed before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli

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