The brilliant in the round bezel, shot from above on a white background

Collection Gioielli Classici·Anello

White gold solitaire ring with brilliant-cut diamond in a round, open-worked bezel setting

A twenty-five point brilliant, color G, closed in a round setting pierced at the sides.

€1.700,00 A891B25

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

A single diamond, and beneath it a round setting instead of a basket of claws. The stone sits inside the circle, not above it: the rim of the setting comes up to its girdle, and from there rises a crown of minute claws folded over the outline one at a time. The side is not closed: it is pierced, and through the voids passes the light that comes in from the side, the light that in a solid setting would stay outside. The band is flat, square in section, and holds the stone low, barely lifted above the finger.

Three grams and forty of eighteen-carat white gold. There is one brilliant and it weighs twenty-five hundredths of a carat: color G, the first of the grades called near-colorless, and clarity VS, that is, inclusions found with a ten-power loupe and not with the naked eye. On a ring with no design there is nothing to cover a mistake: what is looked at is how the stone is held, and whether the rim of the setting runs true.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

3,40 gramsWhite gold 18kt 750‰
0,25 carats Diamonds · one, inside the setting
Metals
White gold 18kt 750‰
Technique
Made by hand: the round setting pierced at the sides, the diamond closed within the crown of claws.

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

One, inside the setting 0,25ct Brilliant G-VSNatural diamond
The ring standing, from the front: the low bezel above the flat band
Three-quarter view: the opening in the side of the bezel
From above: the crown of prongs pressed down on the edge of the stone
The profile of the ring standing, with the flat face of the band
The inside of the band and the back of the bezel seen from behind
The ring lying on a stone: the bezel in close-up and the arc of the band

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Brilliant cut
Fifty-seven facets calculated so that light entering from above comes back out the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.
Pierced round setting
The diamond does not sit above a basket of claws: it goes down inside a closed gold ring, as far as its girdle, and the rim of the setting is pushed over the outline of the stone in claws. The sides are opened so that light comes in from the side as well instead of stopping on the table; but every void takes metal from the wall that holds the claws, and on a rim that has lost its roundness the claws no longer close all at the same height. On a setting of a few millimeters the margin is the thickness of a wall.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.