The ring standing on a white background, the three brilliants in line seen in three-quarter view

Collection Gioielli Classici·Anello

Classic trilogy ring in white gold with a larger central diamond and smaller side diamonds

Three brilliants in a row, the middle one larger than the two at the sides: forty-five points in all.

€2.490,00 A938b

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

Three brilliants in a row, and the middle one is larger than the two flanking it: it is the proportion of the classic trilogy, different from the one with three equal stones. Every diamond has its own round setting, and from each setting six claws rise and fold one by one over the girdle of the stone. The side of the settings is not solid: it is pierced, and through the voids passes the light that comes in from the side. The band is smooth and thins away towards the back.

Four grams twenty-five of eighteen-carat white gold. The three brilliants come to forty-five points of carat in all: color F, the last of the three grades called colorless, and clarity VS1, that is, inclusions found with a ten-power loupe and not with the naked eye. Six claws instead of four hold the stone steadier and leave more of its side uncovered, but they all have to be closed at the same height: a longer one catches, a shorter one does not hold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

4,25 gramsWhite gold 18kt 750‰
0,45 carats Diamonds · three in a row, the middle one larger than the two at the sides
Metals
White gold 18kt 750‰
Technique
Made entirely by hand.

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Three in a row, the middle one larger than the two at the sides 0,45ct Brilliant F VS1Natural diamonds, total weight of the three stones
The ring lying flat: the row of three stones in close-up and the smooth band behind
The three bezels seen from the front: the central one is wider than the two at the sides
The openings cut in the side of the bezels, beneath the stones
Side view: the height of the bezels and the band tapering towards the back
The row seen from above, with the six prongs folded over each brilliant

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Brilliant cut
Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out on the same side. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dull.
Six-claw setting
Six points of gold rise from the setting and fold one by one over the girdle of the stone, drawn down by hand until each presses as much as the others. Six holds keep the diamond steadier than four and leave more of its side uncovered, so the light comes in from the sides as well; but they have to be closed all at the same height, because a longer claw catches and a shorter one does not hold, and to tighten it afterwards you have to go back with the tool onto a stone already set.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.