The ring in three-quarter view on a light stone, the pierced dome facing up

Collection Marte·Anello

Men's Marte ring in silver, perforated flat-top dome

Twelve grams forty-five of silver in a hollow dome, cut flat at the top.

€240,00 AA184

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

Above the finger the ring rises into a wide dome, and the dome is not solid: it is a silver shell pierced with round and oval voids of different sizes, held together by the ribs of metal that run between one and the next. At the top, though, the shell does not end in a point or a cap — it is cut flat, in an oval plane, and that plane is the first thing you see when the hand is still. From below you look inside and there is nothing: the wall stands alone, and the light that comes in through the voids on one side leaves through those on the other. The band that carries all this is narrow and smooth instead, and passes under the finger without bulk. Outside the metal is re-polished on the ribs, inside and in the recesses it stays dark.

Twelve grams forty-five of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths, and it is all in the shell and the band: the dome is tall and wide but does not weigh what it seems to, because it is hollow. It is the reason a ring of this bulk can be worn, and at the same time the reason it is difficult to make — behind the wall there is nothing holding the metal up while it is being opened, and the solid that remains between one void and the next is all the structure the ring has. The flat top is stated by the company and it is what separates it from the other silver Marte pieces, which are the same design with a round dome or with a straight band. The company states it as a man's ring. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model is made in gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

12,45 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Finish
Oxidized in the recesses, polished on the raised areas
Technique
Artisan-made in the company's goldsmith's studio. On request the same model is made in gold.
Three-quarter view from the other side: the thin band that carries the dome
The dome seen from above: the top is cut flat into an oval face
In profile: how high the dome rises above the band
The dome almost from the front, with the openings of different sizes
Side view: the flank of the dome and the join with the shoulder
The ring tilted, with the polished ribs and the dark grounds in contrast
The whole profile, from the narrow band up to the top
The inside of the dome: the shell is hollow and inside the silver stays dark
The ring on the finger, the flat top facing the viewer
On the finger in three-quarter view: how much room the dome takes on the hand

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Irregular voids
In a geometric piercing the error is measured against the module that repeats; here there is no module, and every void has to be decided while it is being opened. The risk shifts: not that a mesh comes out crooked, but that at some point the solid is left too thin, and the piece gives way from exactly there. Whoever does it holds together two things that go in opposite directions, an outline that has to look random and a thickness that has to hold.
Oxidizing
The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the light on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before work begins. The same design can be made in gold.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.