Marte ring in silver with heart-shaped black onyx, overall view

Collection Marte·Anello

Marte ring in perforated sterling silver with a heart-shaped black onyx

Nine grams and ten of silver hollowed into craters, and at the center a black onyx heart.

€235,00 AA211

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

At the center there is a black onyx, cut to a heart and polished to a flat table, with the edge beveled all the way round: the light does not go into it, it stays on the surface, and the black reads from a distance. It is held by ball-tipped silver claws, bent over the two lobes and over the point. The rest is a wide band rising towards the stone, and it is not smooth: it is hollowed and pierced with round craters of different sizes, dark in the recesses and re-polished on the rims. The holes go right through, and from inside the ring you can see the light through the metal. It is the pattern of the collection named after Marte, and here it runs all the way round the finger, not only across the top.

Nine grams and ten of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths: for a ring that is a lot, and almost all of it is in the band, which stays thick even where the craters cross it. It is that thickness that holds the holes without the circle giving way under the hand. The craters are not stamped: they are taken out of the metal one by one, and every void opened is material that does not come back. The onyx is a natural stone. The presentation box is included, and on request the same model is made in gold.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

9.10 gramsSilver 925‰
Metals
Silver 925‰
Technique
Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. On request the same model is made in gold.

The stones

Onyx

At the center, between the ball-tipped claws

Cut
Heart-shaped, flat table
Note
Natural stone, black
The heart-shaped onyx in three-quarter view, between the ball prongs
The stone from above: the flat table and the bevelled edge
The inside of the band: the craters pass right through
Side view: the thickness of the hollowed band
The craters on the side, dark in the recesses and re-polished on the edges
The ring resting on a piece of wood, the heart in close-up
The profile of the band against the wood
Close-up of the round craters, of different sizes
The onyx heart seen from above, on the wood
The ring worn, three-quarter view
The ring worn, the heart from the front

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Oxidizing
The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Heart cut
A heart is not faceted: it is shaped to its outline and polished to a flat table, and the outline has to stay symmetrical about the axis running between the two lobes. The eye forgives a crooked facet, not a crooked heart: half a millimeter of difference between one lobe and the other shows at once, and by then the stone has already been taken away.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.

Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made. The same design can be made in gold.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece
Made by
Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.