The turquoise and the gold bezels of the eight diamonds seen in three-quarter view, the ring resting on a light stone

Collection Marte·Anello

Domed, openwork Marte ring with a turquoise in a silver bezel and eight gray diamonds all around

Name: Domed, openwork Marte ring with a turquoise in a silver bezel and eight gray diamonds all around
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: AA240btu
Price: 590.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Sixteen grams of silver pierced into craters, and thirty hundredths of a gram of gold: enough for the eight diamond settings and nothing more.

€590,00 AA240btu

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

The turquoise is an oval cabochon, pale blue, domed and polished without a single facet: the light does not go in, it stops on the curve, and up close you can see slightly darker veining pass through it. It is closed by a continuous silver setting, its rim folded over the stone into an irregular lip — thicker in one place, thinner in another — and re-polished, so the bright line runs all the way round the blue while the rest stays black. Around it the silver is oxidized and pierced right through: round and oval craters of different sizes covering the head, running down the flanks and continuing along the shank, which does not become smooth again but stays pierced right under the finger. The eight gray diamonds make a full circuit of the stone, each raised in its own four-claw yellow gold setting, at distances never twice the same. From below the head is open: you look inside the ring and see the rough back of the turquoise.

Sixteen grams of silver at nine hundred and twenty-five thousandths against thirty hundredths of a gram of eighteen-carat gold: the silver weighs more than fifty times the gold, and the gold is only in the eight settings. Here it does not carry the structure, it holds only the small stones, and it is where the eye goes. The eight natural gray brilliant-cut diamonds add up to twenty-five points of a carat: a little over three points each, so not stones to be counted one by one but eight points of light closing the circle around the blue. The turquoise is stated to be natural, and it remains a soft, porous stone — it scratches easily and drinks in whatever it touches — so the ring comes off before creams, perfumes and detergents: a blue that goes dull does not come back.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

16.00 gramsSilver 925‰

0.30 gramsYellow gold 18kt 750‰

0.25 carats Diamonds · eight, all around the turquoise

Metals: Silver 925‰ · Yellow gold 18kt 750‰
Technique: Made by hand in the company's goldsmith's studio. Body in silver, pierced and drilled into craters, oxidized in the recesses and re-polished on the raised areas; the turquoise closed in a silver setting whose rim is folded over into an irregular lip, the eight diamonds in four-claw yellow gold settings.

The stones

Turquoise

At the center, in a silver setting closed all the way round

Cut: Oval cabochon
Note: Natural

The diamonds

Natural. Position, cut, carats, colour and clarity.

Eight, all around the turquoise 0.25ct Brilliant —Natural gray diamonds, each in its own four-claw yellow gold setting · total

Three-quarter view from the other side: the craters run from the head down the sides of the ring

The head almost from the front, with the silver edge folded over the turquoise

Side view: how high the dome rises above the finger

The side of the ring and the opening beneath the head

The burnished, pierced silver surface, seen from above at an angle

Three-quarter view from behind: the openwork crosses the shank right through

The ring lying flat: the gold bezels in a row around the stone

Front view: the eight diamonds close the circle around the turquoise

From above at an angle: the craters of the head and of the shoulders

From inside the ring the rough back of the turquoise shows through the open base

The ring worn, seen from the back of the hand

Close-up on a branch: the gold prongs and the recesses left black

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Turquoise: Turquoise is a soft, porous stone: it scratches easily and drinks in whatever it touches. That is why it is not faceted but shaped and polished into a dome, and why it is set last, on a cold, finished mount: under the flame turquoise turns green, and it does not turn back. Almost all the turquoise on the market is stabilized with resin precisely so that it will take the cutting, the polishing and the setting. Whoever wears it has one rule only: the piece comes off before perfumes, creams and detergents, because acids, cosmetics and heat put its blue out, and blue lost does not come back.
Oxidizing: The silver is darkened on purpose, and then re-polished only where the light has to come back. The black stays in the voids and the recesses, the bright on the raised areas: it is a design made by subtraction, and whoever does it decides where to stop the cloth.
Gold and silver on the same piece: Silver melts at a lower temperature than gold and oxidizes quickly under the flame. Mounting the two metals on the same piece means heating just enough for the solder to take without sinking the silver, and cleaning the joint before the black from the flame is shut in under the gold.
Brilliant cut: Fifty-seven facets calculated so that the light entering from above comes back out the same way. It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle, and the reason a badly cut diamond stays dead.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made in the size of the person who will wear it: we work it out together before the piece is made.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli