The corolla seen almost from above: dark green enamel inside the wavy silver rim, round iolite at the centre

Collection Fiore d'Inverno·Anello

Medium Fiore d'Inverno ring in silver with iolite and green enamel

Name: Medium Fiore d'Inverno ring in silver with iolite and green enamel
Brand: Anna Gioielli
SKU: AA146Miol
Price: 140.0 EUR
Availability: InStock

Eighteen millimeters of corolla enameled dark green

€140,00 AA146Miol

Drawn and built by hand at the bench, in Tosi.

A silver corolla of eighteen millimeters, the rim left wavy and polished, and inside the dark green of the enamel laid over the furrows that run from the center: the glass is transparent and the rays can be read beneath it. In the middle a round iolite in a plain bezel, which seen from above sits on the blue-violet. The shank is hammered.

Six and a half grams of silver, and a corolla wider than that of its brother with the yellow enamel, which sets the same stone. The green and the blue-violet are close to each other, and what tells them apart is the setting: the silver runs around the iolite and lifts it off the ground.

The material

Weights and carats as the workshop declares them.

6,50 gramsSilver 925‰

Metals: Silver 925‰
Finish: Green enamel inside, polished border
Dimensions: Flower diameter approx. 18 mm
Technique: Made by hand in Tosi's goldsmith studio. Hammered shank.

The stones

Iolite

At the center of the corolla

Cut: Round faceted

The ring in three-quarter view, with the whole circle of the shank below the corolla

Close view of the enameled cup and the silver bezel around the stone

The ring from behind: the back of the corolla and the inside of the band

Standing and from the front, with the flower seen edge-on above the shank

Set among dry twigs, the green of the enamel against the light wood

Worn: the corolla resting on the finger gives the size of the flower

Worn, close up, with the irregular rim standing out against the skin

How it is made

The words of the trade, one by one, explained to those who do not know them.

Corolla from a single sheet: The corolla is not an assembly of petals: it is a single sheet, hollowed until it becomes a low cup and left irregular at the rim, with the folds running from the center outwards. A wavy rim cannot be corrected twice — stretched silver does not go back — so the first fold is the one that stays. In the middle of the cup there is the one point that has to remain flat: it is the seat of the stone, and if the cup has moved there the setting will not sit.
Enamel: Enamel is glass: ground to a powder, laid on the metal and taken to several hundred degrees until it melts and becomes one surface with the piece. Before the fire it is a wet powder that a breath will move; afterwards it cannot be retouched, because correcting one spot means sending all the color already fired back into the fire, and at every pass you risk the bubble, the cooling crack and the color that shifts. The families have proper names and are told apart by how the metal holds the color: champlevé, when the color sits in hollows cut into the sheet; cloisonné, when it sits inside little walls of wire soldered to the ground; cold enamel, when in place of the glass there is a resin that hardens without fire. They are different pieces of work, and they are not attributed by eye.
Hammering: The shank is beaten with a hammer until the surface takes on an irregular texture. No blow is the same as the one before, so no ring is the same as another.
Iolite: Iolite changes color according to the direction it is looked at from: along one axis it is a full blue-violet, along another it is almost colorless. The color of each bead is therefore decided by the cutter, at the moment of choosing how to orient it, and on a strand half a meter long that choice is repeated bead after bead. It is the reason why in a strand of iolite the beads are never all the same blue.

I don't look at what others are doing: I would rather create in my own style. That is what makes our jewelry recognizable.
Fabio Gori — Anna Gioielli, Tosi

Made for you

Every ring is made to the size of the person who will wear it: we settle it together before the work begins.

The goldsmith's workshop is also the place where made-to-measure jewellery is created and family pieces are restored: if you have an idea, or something you want brought back to how it was, that is where it starts.

Ask for a made-to-measure piece

Made by

Anna Gioielli

A goldsmith's workshop in Tosi, on the slopes of the Pratomagno: Anna opened it in 1988, her sons Fabio and Francesco carry it on. Piercing, repoussé, chasing and burin engraving — the Florentine school, with the workshop in full view of the shop.

All the creations by Anna Gioielli